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Freedom Wall
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Apache Line S 
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Land of the Free 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Terry Christenson & Valerie Ng
Page Views: 2,836
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jan 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Second to the last pitch on "Land of the Free...


Vaguely reminiscent of, but IMO, much better than Levitation 29. If off-vertical technical climbing heavy on the edges is your bag, you'll be close to heaven on the upper half. Excellent rock: solid and crisp w/out being too sharp.

P1: We started with Apache Line (11b) which is excellent, steep and a stout warmup, but still probably easier than the 11d guidebook option. ~40m

P2: 4th class, possible batmaning a fixed rope.

P3-5: Varieties of 5.10 slabbing (10a, 10c, 10d) on smooth rock with somewhat sparse bolting. This section gives some people the willies.

P6-9: 11b, 11d, 11b, 11c. One intricate, stellar face pitch after another. P6 is about 110'.

P10: 12b. The final pitch is hard right off the belay and ends under a big roof. Supposed to be solid at the grade and tricky.

You should expect some loose rock, vegetation and a little dirty climbing but over all the route is pretty solid and the climbing is great.

Descent: rap the route. we had two 60M ropes. A 70M would probably work for every rap except for the last one. Most pitches were about 30m except where noted. I've provided the guidebook ratings which are fairly solid but by no means sandbaggy by Portrero standards, or at least compared to the Mota.


Roughly 50-75 M left of Sendero in the middle of the overhanging part of the crag between "Natural Mystic" and "Freedom Fries" If you have a rest day to burn, it's worth scoping out the approach and deciding which 1st pitch option looks most appealing to you.


I probably took 16 and a couple of long slings. We took a few nuts and some Tricams for the 5.10 slabs but I don't recall placing anything.

Photos of Land of the Free Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: More Apache Line.
More Apache Line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the 3rd pitch of "Land of the Free...
Climber on the 3rd pitch of "Land of the Free...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying the 2nd on Apache Line.  The 11d start is...
Belaying the 2nd on Apache Line. The 11d start is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Apache Line, a steep warmup.
Apache Line, a steep warmup.
Rock Climbing Photo: Headed up the third pitch
Headed up the third pitch

Comments on Land of the Free Add Comment
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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jan 9, 2011

This is my favorite route at el potrero after 4 weeks of climbing there. Steep, long and varied. Easily tamed with a single rack of cams. The last pitch is indeed tricky. Since I got within 6 inches of the onsight, I'd better call it 12 A.
By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Jan 31, 2011

Awesome adventure! This route needs more traffic. So, skip Potrero cleaning days and go clean some weeds and rocks off this route.
The first pitch 11d pocketed "face" is the money pitch and the crux of the original line IMO. A very rude awakening.
The 11c/d pitch before the last one (12b), seemed way easier than 10d pitch downstairs. So, it may be a typo.
By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Dec 30, 2013

A neglected classic. This is one of Potrero' s finest long routes.
The apache line is a good option for the first pitch.
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Aug 17, 2015

This is a good route! Bolts are spaced well, but you wont die (probably). You can bring a small rack to supplement if you want.
By lunsford
6 days ago

The third and fourth pitches average 20' between bolts. Bring your best head game, because the dirt in the holds doesn't help much.

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