Land of the Free 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Christensen & Ng |
| Submitted By: | david goldstein on Jan 30, 2007 |
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Belaying the 2nd on Apache Line. The 11d start is...
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Description Vaguely reminiscent of, but IMO, much better than Levitation 29. If off-vertical technical climbing heavy on the edges is your bag, you'll be close to heaven on the upper half. Excellent rock: solid and crisp w/out being too sharp.
P1: We started with Apache Line (11b) which is excellent, steep and a stout warmup, but still probably easier than the 11d guidebook option. ~40m
P2: 4th class, possible batmaning a fixed rope.
P3-5: Varieties of 5.10 slabbing on smooth rock with somewhat sparse bolting. This section gives some people the willies.
P6-9: 11b, 11d, 11b, 11c. One intricate, stellar face pitch after another. P6 is about 110'.
P10: 12b. We didn't climb this pitch. It appeared to be bulgy and wandering. Supposed to be solid at the grade and tricky.
Descent: rap the route. we had two 60M ropes. A 70M would probably work for every rap except for the last one. Most pitches were about 30m except where noted. I've provided the guidebook ratings which are fairly solid but by no means sandbaggy by Portrero standards, or at least compared to the Mota.
Location Roughly 50-75 M left of Sendero. If you have a rest day to burn, it's worth scoping out the approach and deciding which 1st pitch option looks most appealing to you.
Protection Sorry to say I don't remember how many quickdraws are need. I probably took 16 and a couple of long slings. We took a few nuts and some Tricams for the 5.10 slabs but I don't recall placing anything.
Apache Line, a steep warmup.
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| Comments on Land of the Free |
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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jan 9, 2011
| This is my favorite route at el potrero after 4 weeks of climbing there. Steep, long and varied. Easily tamed with a single rack of cams. The last pitch is indeed tricky. Since I got within 6 inches of the onsight, I'd better call it 12 A. |
By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Jan 31, 2011
| Awesome adventure! This route needs more traffic. So, skip Potrero cleaning days and go clean some weeds and rocks off this route.
The first pitch 11d pocketed "face" is the money pitch and the crux of the original line IMO. A very rude awakening.
The 11c/d pitch before the last one (12b), seemed way easier than 10d pitch downstairs. So, it may be a typo. |
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