|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 580', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Lance Bateman (Alt Leads) 2 October 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||377|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Oct 5, 2009|
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Paul on pitch one. Photo Chris Bonington
The route was named with a mixture of the efforts of Lance and Sir Chris Bonington who was taking photos of the ascent,or something like that. Scramble up to the high point of the talus wave north of the start of Mellow Yellow. From here a 400' 4th/5th class scramble up slabs to the start below the obvious slim groove on the far right of the Mellow Yellow formation ... See Topo photo.Start from below a brown left leaning dyke.
P1).Only bolt pro on this pitch. Follow the dyke passed two bolts then trend up to the right ,here the rock was a little friable ,but now well cleaned.Four more bolts protect this section straight up to a small ledge and double anchors below the start of the slim impressive 200' groove.180' 5.9.
P2).A great pitch. Intricate 5.11 stemming up the first 50',above this the difficulties ease to about 5.9+ . A total of 9 pro bolts and some cam protection. 200' 5.11 .Scramble about 60' up left to a big ledge
P3). The larger groove far left is a pitch of Mellow Yellow.,climb the slimmer groove/crack to its right to a good bolt belay at its top. Nice climbing up perfect rock. 200'5.6R.
Descent> Rap down the Mellow Yellow groove from rap anchors about 40' down and over to the right (south) . Scramble back down to the top of the pitch 2 anchors of Lance-a-Lot.Two Raps to the low angled slabs.
Triple Buttress Area . Right (North) of Three Finger Canyon. See topo Photo.
Cams.from 1/4" to #4 Friend. medium stopper. Quick draws. Slings. Two 60m Ropes