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Runout Ridge T 

Lance-a-Lot 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 580', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Lance Bateman (Alt Leads) 2 October 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 5, 2009

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Paul on pitch one. Photo Chris Bonington

Description 

The route was named with a mixture of the efforts of Lance and Sir Chris Bonington who was taking photos of the ascent,or something like that. Scramble up to the high point of the talus wave north of the start of Mellow Yellow. From here a 400' 4th/5th class scramble up slabs to the start below the obvious slim groove on the far right of the Mellow Yellow formation ... See Topo photo.Start from below a brown left leaning dyke.
P1).Only bolt pro on this pitch. Follow the dyke passed two bolts then trend up to the right ,here the rock was a little friable ,but now well cleaned.Four more bolts protect this section straight up to a small ledge and double anchors below the start of the slim impressive 200' groove.180' 5.9.
P2).A great pitch. Intricate 5.11 stemming up the first 50',above this the difficulties ease to about 5.9+ . A total of 9 pro bolts and some cam protection. 200' 5.11 .Scramble about 60' up left to a big ledge
P3). The larger groove far left is a pitch of Mellow Yellow.,climb the slimmer groove/crack to its right to a good bolt belay at its top. Nice climbing up perfect rock. 200'5.6R.

Descent> Rap down the Mellow Yellow groove from rap anchors about 40' down and over to the right (south) . Scramble back down to the top of the pitch 2 anchors of Lance-a-Lot.Two Raps to the low angled slabs.

Location 

Triple Buttress Area . Right (North) of Three Finger Canyon. See topo Photo.

Protection 

Cams.from 1/4" to #4 Friend. medium stopper. Quick draws. Slings. Two 60m Ropes


Photos of Lance-a-Lot Slideshow Add Photo
Lance near the top of the 5.11 section pitch two.T...
Lance near the top of the 5.11 section pitch two.T...
Lance Bateman at the top of the 200'5.11 Pitch 2
Lance Bateman at the top of the 200'5.11 Pitch 2
Paul on first pitch
Paul on first pitch
Paul srarting first pitch.
Paul srarting first pitch.
Chris being Ansel
Chris being Ansel
A)"Cumbria" 5.9 B)Mellow Yellow.5.8 C)La...
BETA PHOTO: A)"Cumbria" 5.9 B)Mellow Yellow.5.8 C)La...
Lance topping out on the last pitch. Great views a...
Lance topping out on the last pitch. Great views a...
 . Lance on second Pitch 5.11
. Lance on second Pitch 5.11
"Look at that...those guys are nuts!
"Look at that...those guys are nuts!

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