A pair of Peregrines have nested in various spots a couple hundred feet up the south face over the last few years. Do not climb routes adjacent to their nesting sites until mid-summer when they've left the nest. They will become agressive if they feel you're encroaching upon the nest! Consider climbing elsewhere in the early summer, or on the West Prow and the Taurine Corridor.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A really cool 400' crag of banded gneiss lost in the Bighorn backcountry. This gem has a little something for everyone, from 5 pitch trad routes to single pitch sport routes. The emphasis here is on gear-protected face climbing, as there are few defined or continuous crack systems. This makes for somewhat heady, but safe, routes utilizing bomber incipient horizontal cracks. Bring a healthy rack of small to medium cams for any of the longer trad routes.
Although it's a bit of a drive on some bumpy backroads, none of these routes are more than 5 minutes from your car. Very limited development had occurred prior to a new wave starting a few years back, so most of these routes have seen little traffic and may be a bit dirty in spots. However, the rock is generally excellent and amenable, and with a little more traffic these lines should clean up nice. Go check out this scenic and secluded venue!
From Sheridan, take Highway 87 South for 4 miles to the junction at the Y-Not Liquor/Gas Station and continue on Wyoming Highway 335 for 3 more miles to the small town of Bighorn. Stay on 335 for another 6.5 miles until the pavement ends and County Road 26 (Redgrade Road) begins. Redgrade is steep graded dirt and four-wheel drive is recommended, but not necessary. Follow Redgrade for 10.8 miles and turn left onto Forest Service Road 293. This junction is marked with a sign for Park Reservoir, Spear-o-Wigwam, etc. Zero your odometer here. 1.7 miles: Turn left onto Forest Service Road 309. A sign for Spear-o-Wigwam points right along 293. 4.8 miles: Junction with Forest Service Road 316 (Teepee Creek) which heads left. Stay on 309 (Willow Creek) to the right. 5.5 miles: Top of large, steep hill. Low-clearance vehicles should park here and walk down. 5.9 miles: Bottom of hill. Park in the small pullouts on either side of the road just before a cattle-guard.
From the parking pullout, cross the cattle-guard and cut left into the woods. A faint path winds along the base of the hillside. Routes are listed from left to right, as they're encountered. To reach the Taurine Corridor and the West Prow: cut left at a blazed tree, head uphill below a large boulder, cut along the base of the cliff, cross some talus and ascend a short, steep gully. The huge roof system is on the left (north) side of the upper gully.
There are many variations possible to this fun climb. The description below is a clean and moderate path. Other variations are described in Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns by Trevor Bowman. P1- 5.7, 100': Follow discontinuous crack system on right side of the wall. After pulling small roof angle left to 2 bolt anchor. The protection is great even though it looks a bit intimidating from the ground.P2- 5.8, 100': Climb past three bolts on fun face climbing. At third bolt follow blocky cracks t...[more]Browse More Classics in WY
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for Lamburger Rock, including the multi-pitch lines on the south face, and the other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.