BETA PHOTO: Slipper, We Are Off, Fun and Games, Dyslexic, and ...
This formation lies across the canyon from The Citadel
. Several routes are located on the south and west faces and are described in a topo published in an old Rock&Ice. The relatively easy approach and descent make it a good destination for a relaxing daytrip.
Approach via the Topp Hut road and the trail which leads into Rabbit Ears Canyon (see The Citadel
for details). It is easy to spot the wall and the routes on the South Face from the approach trail. The trail forks just before reaching the bottom of the canyon. Take the left (straight) fork (if you do notice the other taking off sharply to the right). Once on a boulder field, look for a cairn on the other side. From the bottom of the canyon, go up next to a large rock shown in the photo.
The trail is marked with cairns and somewhat used. It first traverses left, then goes up a rocky ridge, traverses left again, goes up a gully, and traverses left once more before the final upward push through the trees to the base of the, dihedral which leads to the Wizard pinnacle.
Expect 1-2hrs for the approach depending on how far along the Topp Hut road you can drive.
The descent from all routes is via a gully on the south side of the formation. From the top where the routes (Yellow Brick Road, Wizard of Ooze, and West Face) converge, traverse though a dead tree, past two live trees, and downclimb a corner to the base of it where the rap chains are located. It takes only a single rappel if you have two 60m ropes. But there are three 2-bolt rappel stations 85', 70' and 50' apart. Two single-rope rappels suffice (skipping the last station, which is not in a good condition) to get to some lower angled rock, where one can carefully scramble down to the base (4th class). When scrambling, head almost as much to the right as down until you reach the right end of the scooped out area, then go down. Once off the steep rock, you can traverse back to the start of the dihedral under the Wizard.
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lambda
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lambda
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lambda:
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Lambda
Yellow Brick Road 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Lambda
This climb has two worthy challenges: puzzling route-finding and variations for the first pitch, high exposure and some commiting moves up the second pitch.The R&I topo shows the first pitch starting somewhere up on the low angled scramble beneath the descent gully. It depicts 5.5 climbing traversing in from the left on ledges. More direct variations work as well, but the protection can be tricky. There are many shallow corners with tight seams that can be followed, all of them relatively low-an...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Lambda Wall as seen from approach.
Lambda Wall on the West Face? Roger Guinn on top b...
Lambda Wall on the right, to Card Deck on the left...
BETA PHOTO: North face of Lambda as seen from the west.
Lambda Wall viewed from top of Pitch 1 of Bucky Bl...
BETA PHOTO: Start of the trail to the Lambda Wall as seen from...
Lambda Wall from the approach. Photo Marc Tarnosky...
BETA PHOTO: Lambda Wall West Face
BETA PHOTO: Lambda Wall South Face
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Lambda Wall. The Pinnacle format...
BETA PHOTO: Lambda wall viewed from the mine at the end of the...
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Nov 10, 2014
We made our way out to Lambda Wall yesterday. Thank you much to all who put time in on making it clear how to get out there - saves a ton of nasty bushwhacking! I think our return time back to the car near Baylor Road was around an hour.