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Cracked Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 
60 Minutes T,TR 
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 
Bob's Cling TR 
Burn Permit S 
Camel S,TR 
Civilized Evil T,TR 
Crank You, Thank You S 
Crankin' S 
Curley Shuffle S 
Dirty Rat's Crack T 
Guide's Area TR 
Humps T 
Lama T,S,TR 
Mouse Maze T,S 
Namasté T,S 
No Permit Required S 
Only Way To Fly S,TR 
Rat Race S 
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 
Western Airlines S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lama 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tim Sorenson & Pete Gulyash, Jan 1981
Page Views: 2,033
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Zerita approaching the roof on Lama

Description 

Start 6' to the right of a large oak tree at the far right end of the Cracked Wall, directly below 2 bolts. An alternate, significantly easier start, traverses in from 8' to the right of the direct start. Climb the slabby face past several shallow, finger pockets up to twin horizontal cracks and your first gear. Work left along the ramp to clip the first bolt. Continue up into dish, clip second and final bolt, and continue up past a horizontal seam to roof and a good gear placement. Pull through the roof crack (fun!) to a 2-bolt anchor.

For those not wishing to lead Lama, a TR can be set by scrambling up and right of the cliff.

Protection 

2 bolts, finger-size TCU (yellow), and a 0.5 Camalot (or equivalent).


Photos of Lama Slideshow Add Photo
yay...lars sports it up w/a helmet
yay...lars sports it up w/a helmet
From left, there's the direct start for Crank You ...
BETA PHOTO: From left, there's the direct start for Crank You ...

Comments on Lama Add Comment
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By Bob Hill
Apr 14, 2005

I had the extreme pleasure of belaying and witnessing Mike Morley on-sight Lama yesterday afternoon. This was a true on-sight of the route, something that I would guess is a fairly rare occurrence.

Way to go, Mike. What a proud lead!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 12, 2006

I've probably climbed this route 2 dozen times in the past year, and it always seems challenging and deceptive. There are two distinct ways to climb past the first bolt, as well as two distinct options just past the second bolt. The trick is finding the path of least resistance, which is not easy. Otherwise, Lama is going to feel like the hardest 5.10 on the planet!
By Marty Brenner
From: Durango, CO
Sep 16, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route. I'd give it two more stars if it was just longer.
By Jim Reynolds
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Nice and thin on the bottom. Makes for some awesomely insecure moves. I thought the climb got a lot easy after the first ledge.

Almost seems like it was designed to chicken-clip the first bolt by walking around onto the ledge. If not, I'd be as willing to free solo it as lead it! Crash pad would probably take care of the boltless crux though, but who wants to carry around one a those?
By John Knight
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

The bottom, thin section is 5.10R, otherwise the rest of the route is 5.9/5.10a. You can easily avoid the bottom section by traversing in from the right (still 5.9R).
By Richard Shore
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Onsighted this line today with the direct start. Good stuff, and spicy to boot. I was unable to place any pro in the first horizontals as they were PACKED with hard dirt. I didn't feel like fiddling around excavating the cracks with a nut tool, so I ran it to the first bolt. Not for budding 5.10 leaders. I've done sandbagged 5.10b face climbs in JTree that were easier than this, so I'll stick with the original 5.10d rating.
By Josterling
Sep 9, 2012

If High noon is rate 5.10B. this route is most deffinetely more like 10c/d that first part is difficult. One of my favourite routes however.