Start 6' to the right of a large oak tree at the far right end of the Cracked Wall, directly below 2 bolts. An alternate, significantly easier start, traverses in from 8' to the right of the direct start. Climb the slabby face past several shallow, finger pockets up to twin horizontal cracks and your first gear. Work left along the ramp to clip the first bolt. Continue up into dish, clip second and final bolt, and continue up past a horizontal seam to roof and a good gear placement. Pull through the roof crack (fun!) to a 2-bolt anchor.
For those not wishing to lead Lama, a TR can be set by scrambling up and right of the cliff.
2 bolts, finger-size TCU (yellow), and a 0.5 Camalot (or equivalent).
I had the extreme pleasure of belaying and witnessing Mike Morley on-sight Lama yesterday afternoon. This was a true on-sight of the route, something that I would guess is a fairly rare occurrence.
Way to go, Mike. What a proud lead!
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Jul 12, 2006
I've probably climbed this route 2 dozen times in the past year, and it always seems challenging and deceptive. There are two distinct ways to climb past the first bolt, as well as two distinct options just past the second bolt. The trick is finding the path of least resistance, which is not easy. Otherwise, Lama is going to feel like the hardest 5.10 on the planet!
By Marty Brenner From: Durango, CO Sep 16, 2006 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
Great route. I'd give it two more stars if it was just longer.
By Jim Reynolds May 11, 2011 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
Nice and thin on the bottom. Makes for some awesomely insecure moves. I thought the climb got a lot easy after the first ledge.
Almost seems like it was designed to chicken-clip the first bolt by walking around onto the ledge. If not, I'd be as willing to free solo it as lead it! Crash pad would probably take care of the boltless crux though, but who wants to carry around one a those?
By John Knight Jun 3, 2011 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b R
The bottom, thin section is 5.10R, otherwise the rest of the route is 5.9/5.10a. You can easily avoid the bottom section by traversing in from the right (still 5.9R).
Onsighted this line today with the direct start. Good stuff, and spicy to boot. I was unable to place any pro in the first horizontals as they were PACKED with hard dirt. I didn't feel like fiddling around excavating the cracks with a nut tool, so I ran it to the first bolt. Not for budding 5.10 leaders. I've done sandbagged 5.10b face climbs in JTree that were easier than this, so I'll stick with the original 5.10d rating.