|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Peter Croft, Marty Lewis, & Dayle Mazzarella - September, 1999|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006|
|Comments on Lalaland||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2011
|As shown in picture, there appears to be a newer bolt on this climb making trad protection pretty unnecessary for all but the most timid.|
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Definitely do not need any gear on this one- you can easily stick clip the second bolt if the first is too low for your liking.
IMHO, this route is harder than its neighbor, but just as good. Pretty amazing chunk of rock to produce two really long, amazing lines like that.
Word to the wise- extend the 2nd and 3rd draws after the roof to reduce drag. I used 24" runners and was pretty happy overall. A longish draw on the first bolt over the roof helps too.
By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 11, 2015
This thing is truly excellent.
Still haven't done Santana or Flex your head, but both of those routes have a lot to live up to to unseat this as best 11c in my mind..
Caldera has more wild positioning pulling on to the arete, but the start and finish of this climb are much better. (The perfect hands section at the start of Caldera is fun but the fingers section on this route is more interesting/technical.)