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Faulty Tower
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Unsorted Routes:

Lalaland 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Marty Lewis, & Dayle Mazzarella - September, 1999
Page Views: 1,211
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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To the first overlap

Description 

Begin just left of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower at a nice looking finger crack. Ascend this to a high first clip (an Alien is useful to protect this), and then eventually head up the face to the right. Up higher the climb enters a steep right facing dihedral system that has a definite crux which can be negotiated with creative stemming.

Protection 

15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.


Photos of Lalaland Slideshow Add Photo
Bernd  starting up Lalaland
Bernd starting up Lalaland
almost to the overhanging section
almost to the overhanging section
Bernd leading Lalaland
Bernd leading Lalaland
The start of Lalaland
The start of Lalaland
Traversing out of the crack onto the face
Traversing out of the crack onto the face
Bernd prances up the initial steep section
Bernd prances up the initial steep section
climbing up the face
climbing up the face
Over the first overlap
Over the first overlap

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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2011

As shown in picture, there appears to be a newer bolt on this climb making trad protection pretty unnecessary for all but the most timid.