Lake Whitney (DWS) Rock Climbing
High on Nikki's Flake.
Deep water soloing and water bouldering! Great for the Texas heat! Some very good walls can be even accessed without a boat, although having a boat makes the experience much more enjoyable. Make sure you check the landings, especially if the water level is low! Some of the rock can be chossy, test your holds before committing.
Grades and route length can vary due to water level, so the listed grade and height is more of an approximation then anything else.
If you don't have a real boat, the best system I've found is to get an inflatable raft, hike in with it in a backpack and then blow it up with a hand pump once you get near the walls. This saves you from having to do some very sketchy hiking (maybe 4th class for some people?) while carrying an unwieldy inflated boat. It is also alot easier to start most of the climbs from an inflatable boat instead of an inner tube or the like.
If you decide to use an inflatable raft (very convenient and recommended unless you have a real boat), make sure you take enough life preservers for everyone in the boat because it is common to have the lake patrol come check you while on the water.
For the areas that can be reached by hiking, park at the Soldiers Bluff park (free) off of Hwy 22, next to the dam.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lake Whitney (DWS)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lake Whitney (DWS)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lake Whitney (DWS):
Featured Route For Lake Whitney (DWS)
Pocket Protector 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TX
: Lake Whitney (DWS)
: The Corral
A nice warmup ladder for those days out on the Lake.Begin on two obvious jugs about shoulder width apart and use pockets and blocks to climb the less than vertical face.It's possible to topout through the shrubs, but a solid stand position just below the greenery facilitates a forward-facing dive back into the lake....[more] Browse More Classics in TX
Jul 28, 2014
For us Texans who don't have many options sometimes you gotta take what ya got. If you've always wanted to go DWS but can't afford a trip to Spain this is a decent alternative. The rock may be the most flimsy thing you've seen since your grandma waved bye, but it's what we got. Most places have surprisingly deep landings and the rock gets better as you go up. There is more potential for development out here BUT (and that's a big butt) often finding a way to get out of your boat and on the rock may be the hardest part of the route since the bottom 5 feet is usually blank choss. Not to mention, if you don't own a motorboat it may take some time to seek out new stuff (takes a while to get around in an inflatable raft). no shade out here so bring a sombrero.
From: Austin, Texas
Sep 30, 2014
Amazing free camping at Soldiers Bluff and Walling Bend that is rarely ever crowded. Walling Bend is more scenic and quitter but further away from most of the DWS.