Lake Powell Rock Climbing
This climb is located at the start of the canyon w...
Endless beautiful cracks along the 700 miles of climbable cliffs that form the shoreline. Navajo and Wingate sandstone. Generally a bit warmer than the Moab area. Adventure climbing with only a few hundred established routes... a lifetime of possibilities. This is truly a spectacular venue for climbing.
Unfortunately, the hundred or so feet of rock below the high water mark (the white stuff) is generally poor for climbing/water soloing.
Beautiful camps abound, and driftwood generally makes for easy campfires. A portable shitter is required if you're more than a quarter mile from a marina.
Need a boat to get to the good stuff! Skiff rentals around $40 a day during the off season (best weather for climbing). Houseboats are very expensive ($3000+ a week). Sea kayaks are perfect.
Starting from the dam, the best climbing is between miles 40 and 139, and roughly 20 miles up the San Juan arm. Wingate appears at lake level around mile 115 and continues to 140.
Beautiful 3-5 pitch spires up the Escalante arm (mile 69), though currently difficult to access do to low water.
Hite Marina (at mile 139) is currently closed due to low water (the Colorado River is flowing here). Coming from the north, the best put in is at Bullfrog (south of Hanksville on highway 276), or Halls Crossing from the south. There is a vehicle ferry that operates between these two marinas.
The entire lake is inside the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and a fee is required (or a national parks pass). Camping limit in one spot is 14 days, though this is only enforced during the summer months when it's generally too hot for climbing anyway.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 0.8 miles from here
52 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lake Powell
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lake Powell
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lake Powell:
Featured Route For Lake Powell
The Ring Breaker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a UT
: Lake Powell
: ... : Bowns and Long Canyon
Plenty of good splitters in this small area! Start in the water on good hands which turns into tight hands then ring locks (crux). Use a few good faceholds when in the ringlock section. Then finish out the climb by stepping to the right side of the crack to gain a ledge below a tips/fingers dihedral. This is a good stance to huck a gainer into the water below. On the FA a nose ring was ripped out at the crux be prepared.Theres an OW to the right, left and another hand crack to the left that we c...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
BETA PHOTO: Map of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. View ...
Numerous routes on this formation (lake mile 127)....
a handful of routes in the 9-11 range on this form...
Gunsight Butte near mile 17... made it up two pitc...
After the boat leaves it's just you, rock and wate...
Again steep than it looks!
This route is much steep that the photos lend you ...
lake powell offers endless first ascents for those...
Starting from a kayak. Knowles canyon.
BETA PHOTO: On top of a Box of Chocolates
By Albert Newman
Jan 22, 2011
Please keep in mind that all bolts, pitons and other fixed gear should be removed. Climbing here is a privilege and we should follow the regulations set forth by the National Park Service.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 26, 2011
It doesn't say anything there about bolts. I'd be happy to not use fixed anchors when the big piece of concrete near Page is removed. Until then, hypocrisy of the most ludicrous sort.
By Albert Newman
Feb 2, 2011
This is pasted from page 4 of the regulations:
The requirement that all gear, including pitons, chocks, or other climbing aids be removed and the prohibition
against use of glues, chock, or other aids, is intended to preserve the natural character of cliff faces and preclude
visual disturbances which may occur should devices or evidence be left in place.
Please exercise good judgment climbing in Glen Canyon NRA.