This cliffs sits on the small Mt. Federica, located on the west shore of the remote and beautiful Lake Lila. It's possible to walk here, but even better to canoe here.
On the left side of the cliff, the rock is pink, pocketed, and naturally clean. There are some good cracks here that finish with face climbing. On the right side is a wall covered with ice in the winter, with a super good route, "Do Me A Solid".
There have been 5 new routes added in recent times, making this a worthwhile destination.
From Long Lake, follow Route 30 north, then left onto Sabattis Road. Follow for 7.6 miles, then turn left onto Lake Lila Road and go to its end (parking lot and gate). There is a canoe put-in here.
Hike along the Lake Lila Road 3.2 miles to the lean-to, campsite #7. (Or canoe to this point.) Backtrack 160 yards, then L onto old logging road; follow to railroad tracks. Follow tracks south to a clearing where you can see the cliff. Bushwhack 5 minutes to cliff.
Run out easy ground to the first bolt, then up through a steep section. Go up and right to a headwall. A hidden flake and good edges make this finish surprisingly accessible....[more]Browse More Classics in NY