Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana Rock Climbing
Start of trail to cliffs
The Lake Dunmore area has a small collection of modestly sized crags located in Branbury State Park right next to Lake Dunmore. The rock is Cheshire Quartzite, a fine-grained, incredibly hard monolithic gray rock. Most of the rock is slabby/less than vertical, and mostly in the 5.5 to 5.9 range. This area is supposedly very popular for summer camps and club trips, so the easier/better routes see a lot of traffic and are very clean, though there are definitely a few suspect blocks and flakes that are worth treading carefully around. Most of the other rock here is very dirty and has plenty of loose crud. There are many more modestly sized crags in this area that could have some nice lines if they were cleaned.
There is some nice climbing here, but a lot of the routes are dirty and haven't seen much traffic, plus there is some pebbly loose stuff. Also, there appears to by many other crags farther north along the hillside that could be pretty good. This area is now included in the new Vermont Guidebook, Tough Schist. Hopefully this will inspire more folks to climb/develop this area.
From Route 7, take Route 53 towards Lake Dunmore. You will curve around the lake, and just after passing Branbury State Park and Sucker Brook, there will be a small parking area on the left. To get to the crags, either walk up the pipeline to the forest road and then cross Sucker Brook above the falls (scenic but longer) or walk back along the road into the campground, then pick up the well-signed trail and follow it up into the woods, where you will see the Main Crag. The Box is about a quarter mile north of the Main Crag, past a small marshy drainage.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana
The Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c VT
: Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana
: The Box
Up the left-leaning, broken crack, then move right into another left-leaning crack/corner thingy. Follow this up to the top. The last section is surprisingly awkward and strenuous for the grade. You can build a nice anchor at the top on the right.This is a really fun climb with good rock. It's of similar quality, difficulty and length as Hush Mama Thrush at Lower West... maybe even a little better actually.(This is called "Route 5" in Tough Schist by Travis Peckham). The route names...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
By Ian Dibbs
Sep 11, 2014
Easy short walk to access the cliff, easy to top rope, beautiful falls right beside the cliff, large soft shaded base area for the climbs but .... ultimately I was disappointed as a climber, a limited selection of non-descript climbs. Nice for a leisurely outing but don't go expecting a wild exciting climbing experience. Looks like an excellent place for a social outing.