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Lagazuoi , Fanis and Conturines Group

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Cima Scotoni 
Col dei Bos (Cima Bois) 
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Sass di Stria "Hexenstein." 
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Torre Piccola di Falzarego 
Via Ferrata 

Lagazuoi , Fanis and Conturines Group  


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Location: 46.53056, 12.0069 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Mar 2, 2011
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The Falzarego Towers and Punta Alpini form a triad...

Description 

This group of mountains sit East of the Sella Massif and West of the Tofana massif. They stretch north from Falzarego pass. The area consists of three sections:
The Lagazuoi area consists of the shorter, lower faces that are easily easily reached from Falzarego pass and the road leading up to it.
The Fanis area consists of routes approached from the north by hiking up the canyon back towards Falzarego pass area cable car or by hiking down canyon from the top of the cable car. Both of these areas were heavily fortified and contested during the first world war and there are numerous caves and tunnels (one which snakes for over a kilometer up through the center of the mountain).
The Conturines area sits further north in the mountain group and is accessed by driving down from Falzarego pass to village of Pedraces for the western routes and by driving north of Cortina and hiking into the range for the eastern side of the range.

Getting There 

For the southern section of this area (Lagazuoi) drive up the road SR48 from Cortina past Tofana di Rozes to Falzarego pass and park in an appropriate location to access the chosen route.

For the central area routes (Fanis) either take the Falzerego cable car to top of the mountain and descend down the canyon to the base of the wall (be sure to summit and get back in time for the last cable car down) or drive north and hike back up to the base of the mountain. If you choose this method here is the approach:From Passo Falzarego drive north west down the hill on the Val Parola (road SP24 then on SP 37) to the valley bottom just beyond the last big hairpin as you enter the Valley floor there is a road to the right (heading east) that goes to a parking lot at a trail to Rifugio Scotoni and at Capanna Alpina. Park at the end of this road. Hike to Rifugio Scotoni and continue beyond the hut on the path to Lagazuoi lake until below the mountain of choice. Leave the path and scramble over the rubble to the base of the face.

For the Northern routes (Conturines) on the west side (Sasso della Croce, Grand Muro, Sasso Nove or Neunerspitze) you also drive down towards Val Parola from Falzarego pass to village of Pedraces. From there you will need to determine the approach based on the route chosen. To access the eastern side of the Conturines area (Spalti di Col Becchei and surrounding crags)you actually need to drive north of Cortina and take the side road to the Fanestal parking area that comes off the Cortina road right at the big hairpin turn above town. From there it is 2-3 hours hiking into the crags.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.9 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',9],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lagazuoi , Fanis and Conturines Group:
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 450'   Torre Piccola di Falzarego
Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 660'   Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000'   Col dei Bos (Cima Bois)
Browse More Classics in Lagazuoi , Fanis and Conturines Group

Featured Route For Lagazuoi , Fanis and Conturines Group
Exposed traverse on pitch 2.

Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Torre Piccola di Falzarego
The route consists of 9 wonderful leads of exposed climbing on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is quite easy and is fairly short, ending on a decent belay stance after about only 50 feet. Pitch 2 traverses left (exposed but easy climbing) to a short dihedral which terminates atop a flake (same belay as Comici Route). Pitch 3 climbs diagonally right, trending towards a chimney/gully system. Pitch 4 follows the gully/chimney and involves a bit of fun stemming. Pitch 5 is the crux, and may have a move or 2...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Lagazuoi , Fanis and Conturines Group Slideshow Add Photo
Cima Scotoni with a flag of fog on the right, Punt...
Cima Scotoni with a flag of fog on the right, Punt...
Austrian trenches from WW1 at the base of Piz Laga...
Austrian trenches from WW1 at the base of Piz Laga...
Cunterines-Spitze from Sass Dlacia
Cunterines-Spitze from Sass Dlacia
"Ntra i sas," Austrian World War One for...
"Ntra i sas," Austrian World War One for...
Kleiner Lagazuoi, home to Via del Buco.
Kleiner Lagazuoi, home to Via del Buco.
Cima Scotoni (just left of center) from Sass Dlaci...
Cima Scotoni (just left of center) from Sass Dlaci...
Kleiner Falzaregoturm, West Face.
BETA PHOTO: Kleiner Falzaregoturm, West Face.
Spigolo col dei Bos is in the center.
Spigolo col dei Bos is in the center.
Kleiner Lagazuoi, Left Side.
Kleiner Lagazuoi, Left Side.
Piz Lagazuoi has some great WW1 artifacts, tunnels...
Piz Lagazuoi has some great WW1 artifacts, tunnels...
West Face, Kleiner Lagazuoi.
West Face, Kleiner Lagazuoi.
Sass di Stria seen from WW1 tunnel dug into Piz La...
Sass di Stria seen from WW1 tunnel dug into Piz La...

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By Rodger Raubach
Oct 31, 2013
The entire Fanis area was once part of Austria, and old military ruins are everywhere. The mountains themselves are honeycombed with old tunnels connecting fortifications. This was the frontier/front lines during W.W. I. Many of the paths are ex-military mule paths.