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 ADVANCED
Zealand Notch
Select Route:
Black Knight , The T 
Castle Keep T 
Lady Slippers T 
Red Queen (unfinished), The T 

Lady Slippers 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley White, June, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 17, 2011

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Top corner in red

Description 

Begin on the right side and stay on the crest of the ridge for a rope length and pass the first crux of friction face climbing. On the next section I had some water issues so I moved left up a short scree field to a short inside corner second crux and got back onto the white rock right and above the ridge. After some more white face climbing, sadly the quality of the rock deteriorates. Climb up through solid enough blocks (the left behinds of a recent rock slide). Fine for climing on and not fine for protection. After this you'll be at the headwall opposite the finish of the Black Knight with a gully between them. I ascended the the rotten steep rock outside corner (5.4) on the left side of this headwall (some cool green minerals and quarzite crystals on the right side of this rotten rock. It looks worst than it actually is. After the rotten steep start, I moved right and up a easy excellent finish (going up left via a outside corner is availble). With gear the way I went up could be changed to remaining on high quality rock I believe. This climb ends with some rocks on topping off instead of the usual sandy finish above the cliff. The climb was free soloed. The gear is sparse to say the least anyway you choose to go up it. Belays are readily available. Named after the Lady Slipper Orchards that are in abundance in this notch area.

Location 

Between the Black Knight and Castle Keep is a White Ridge that begins to the left of the large white slab. Stay on the crest of the ridge to start the climb.

Protection 

A very light rack is all that is needed. A few stoppers or T.C.U.'s and cams up to size 2. 2 long or three pitches. Walk off down the north slide.


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