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Lady Luck 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, June 2000
Page Views: 1,504
Submitted By: C Miller on May 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Tandora starting up Lady Luck.

Description 

Jam, stem and lieback your way up large flakes clipping bolts as you go. The crux is near the top and involves a somewhat wild move to get established on the upper face that leads to the anchors.

Short and kinda scrappy but perhaps still worth doing as a warmup or whilst waiting for nearby routes to free up.

Location 

On the far left side of the wall between Better Luck Next Time and Lucky Cuss.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Lady Luck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the third bolt on Lady Luck
At the third bolt on Lady Luck
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred near the top.
Fred near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred starts up as Mike spots and Sara watches.
Fred starts up as Mike spots and Sara watches.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steph nearing the top of Lady Luck (5.9), Holcomb ...
Steph nearing the top of Lady Luck (5.9), Holcomb ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris working through the overlaps of Lady Luck.
Chris working through the overlaps of Lady Luck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephanie nearing the crux of Lady Luck (5.9), Hol...
Stephanie nearing the crux of Lady Luck (5.9), Hol...

Comments on Lady Luck Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 14, 2007

I think we used to call this "grotty"..... don't expect much.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007

I don't know... I think this is a fun route. Good pumpy start and how often do ya get to do hand jams on a sport route? ;-)
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wouldn't recommend doing this EVER...even for a warmpup
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 9, 2012

hm... the route was short, but I don't remember the rock being bad quality, the bolts seemed solid and reasonably placed, the climb was maybe not too sustained, but there was a distinct crux. I enjoyed it, just a typical, average run of the mill sport route.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I liked this climb - very physical and unusual and held its interest all the way to the finishing clips. I like Bill's comment about using jams - that's the first time I've done hand jams on a sport route.
By BeauTrivers
Aug 6, 2015

There is an important hand that is now a loose block at or near the crux. It was marginally marked with X - be careful. Both my partner and I opted to bail from the route (10 is tops for our sport leads.)
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Jun 4, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Took me two attempts to finish this route. Only did it the second time around because I wasn't about to leave my gear on the wall. The hold that was mentioned to be loose is on the top of the bulge on the right side of the large crack a couple feet below the last bolt before the anchors. It's definitely a crux hold and should probably be avoided until someone more experienced than myself goes up there and decides what to do about it, whether to reinforce it or remove it. I enjoyed the movement on the first half of the route a lot though so I think this route has good potential to be higher starred if cleaned up. Until then, unfortunately I have to give it a bomb to avoid it.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Jun 13, 2016

Led it on gear. Placed a few cams and a small offset nut. Brought up singles from tiny to 4. Placed the 4, maybe a 3, etc. Been wanting to lead it on gear for a few years.

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