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Better Luck Next Time S 
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Claim Jumper S 
Colonial Ear Wax T 
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Hangin' Judge, The S 
Lady Luck S 
Lucky Cuss S 
Mad Season S 
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Papper, The S 
Public Hanging S 

Lady Luck 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, June 2000
Page Views: 1,335
Submitted By: C Miller on May 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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Tandora starting up Lady Luck.

Description 

Jam, stem and lieback your way up large flakes clipping bolts as you go. The crux is near the top and involves a somewhat wild move to get established on the upper face that leads to the anchors.

Short and kinda scrappy but perhaps still worth doing as a warmup or whilst waiting for nearby routes to free up.

Location 

On the far left side of the wall between Better Luck Next Time and Lucky Cuss.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Lady Luck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephanie nearing the crux of Lady Luck (5.9), Hol...
Stephanie nearing the crux of Lady Luck (5.9), Hol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris working through the overlaps of Lady Luck.
Chris working through the overlaps of Lady Luck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred starts up as Mike spots and Sara watches.
Fred starts up as Mike spots and Sara watches.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the third bolt on Lady Luck
At the third bolt on Lady Luck
Rock Climbing Photo: Steph nearing the top of Lady Luck (5.9), Holcomb ...
Steph nearing the top of Lady Luck (5.9), Holcomb ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred near the top.
Fred near the top.

Comments on Lady Luck Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 14, 2007

I think we used to call this "grotty"..... don't expect much.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007

I don't know... I think this is a fun route. Good pumpy start and how often do ya get to do hand jams on a sport route? ;-)
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wouldn't recommend doing this EVER...even for a warmpup
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 9, 2012

hm... the route was short, but I don't remember the rock being bad quality, the bolts seemed solid and reasonably placed, the climb was maybe not too sustained, but there was a distinct crux. I enjoyed it, just a typical, average run of the mill sport route.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I liked this climb - very physical and unusual and held its interest all the way to the finishing clips. I like Bill's comment about using jams - that's the first time I've done hand jams on a sport route.
By BeauTrivers
Aug 6, 2015

There is an important hand that is now a loose block at or near the crux. It was marginally marked with X - be careful. Both my partner and I opted to bail from the route (10 is tops for our sport leads.)

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