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 ADVANCED
The Wasteland
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Automatic Leg Spreader 
Beast, The 
Believe It 
Capuccino 
Community Service 
Espresso 
Guilt Parade 
Gun Shy 
Java Creek 
Lady Luck 
Never Believe 
Popular Demand 
Ruckus 
Slacker 
Slacker Direct 
Thieves 
Vision Thing 

Lady Luck 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: A. Nelson, R. Wright
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 7, 2002
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Feelin' lucky.

Description 

Lady Luck is on the left panel of the wasteland, in the tan/brown vertical stone forming the upcanyon side of the amphitheater. It is just right of Community Service, the popular, well-chalked 5.11 with the roof band at mid-height, and just left of Guilt Parade, the long 5.12c up the blue, flake-type features.

The route starts with a small bulge (you can either boulder up to a good hold level with the first bolt or stick clip it). Stand up over the bulge and negotiate the thin, technical face climbing above via small crimps and a couple of dynamic stabs up into underclings. More funky, pimpy, pinchy, blocky climbing takes you through the finishing overlaps to a gold-shut anchor.

This is a tricky route that ends up being pretty damn fun once you figure out the Beta.


Protection 

10-12 quickdraws



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