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Wigwam Tower and Keystone Buttress
This is the best summit route up Wigwam Tower and should be considered a classic. Lady Liberty offers excellent climbing on clean cracks that, unlike the Pow Wow Prow, are relatively free of bushes. It faces Southeast and gets good morning sun.
Pitch 1: 5.9+ 150' Start the route in a corner just to the right of the Cap Rock Spire. Jam the moderate hand crack in the corner for about 100' until it widens into an offwidth. Pass the offwidth crux, and belay on a large ledge above. This great pitch ends at the saddle between Cap Rock Spire and Wigwam Tower.
Pitch 2: 5.10 120' Climb a lichen covered but fun crack and face until you reach the offwidth crux of the route. Tackle the tricky offwidth right side in, a #3 Bigbro provides some mental comfort, it's harder than it first looks. Belay on a good ledge with a fixed nut anchor 15 feet above the crux.
Pitch 3: 5.9+ 165' This pitch is inspirational! It is also the last pitch on the Pow Wow Prow route. Start by making some delicate moves on the face to the right of the splitter crack that snakes its way to the summit or thrash through a bush in the crack for four feet. Once past the bush this pitch becomes awesome especially if you have big hands. Jam unrelenting hands to fists to offwidth for 150 feet to a good rest 10 feet below the summit. Plug in a cam and make some face moves onto the summit or sneak around to the right and follow an easy crack. Belay on the small summit and enjoy the incredible view. This would not be a good place to be in an electrical storm.
The descent from the summit leaves much to be desired. As of 04/15/02 the only fixed anchor was two rusty button head bolts that looked questionable at best. There is also a piton cut in half then drilled into the rock on the opposite side of the summit, it looks even worse.
Down climb very carefully to the South, (spooky) and then hop across a 3 foot gap to reach the top of a dihedral system that leads to the gully between Keystone Buttress and Wigwam Tower. I left a large hex here and rappeled to the West with two ropes 180 feet into the gully. Descend the gully to the base of the route. Be careful, if you have a hand drill bring it and do everyone a favor by replacing the anchor.
Gear up to a #4 Camalot, #3 Bigbro; extra #1-#4 Camalots.
Bryson Slothower on pitch 1
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Apr 27, 2002
Thanks for not only leaving your own hex, but also for being the poor sap who raps off one piece. You get green allll night.
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 28, 2002
Thanks to the poor sap who packed in steak and beer for his dirt bag friends!
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 15, 2007
The actual ascent of the Tower was reported in an old CMC bulletin, about 1962. Some of the more modern routes, with some bolts, where put in by Doug Werme, early 1980s. Doug showed me some slides of what he and his partners had been doing, and I think this route was one of theirs.