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Valley Massif
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 899
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on Jul 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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The line outlined.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is on the southwest corner of the Valley Massif. It is the leftmost of some cracks across the pretty slab seen from a distance. It's a 2 star Vedauwoo moderate, but the descent brings it down to 1 star in my opinion, but maybe there is a better way.

Climb 200' of easy 5.4 crack to a belay ledge below a headwall.

Stem and jam your way up the steep/short corner and take a hard right on a ramp to a boulder strewn ledge (short lead).

Down-slab near a wide crack (feels sketchy) to find rap bolts. These are strange bolts but seemed solid. Rap ~60' to another set and rap to the ground. I would discourage a double rope rap as your ropes will likely be eaten.


Bring a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot.

Photos of Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long shot of Valley Massif.
Long shot of Valley Massif.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mindy doing the last couple moves on Ladder.
Mindy doing the last couple moves on Ladder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladder's P1 low angle handcrack.
Ladder's P1 low angle handcrack.

Comments on Ladder Add Comment
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By bart cubrich 1
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The rap is annoying, but this climb get 1 star because it is fairly monotonous and mostly 5.4.... It can be finished directly by going straight up the crack instead of traversing right and probably goes at about 5.7+ this way.

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