Lacto Mangulation 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Jorma Hayes, 1 April 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Darin Powell on Apr 30, 2002 |
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Jason Jones reaches for a hand jam on top rope nea...
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Description Lacto Mangulation is the first route left of Top Forty and the last route before School Room #2. It starts on a small face for about 20 feet (5.6) to a ledge and then follows a right facing dihedral that starts as a fist crack and ends up as a small finger crack. The last 8 feet is the crux. Rap from slung anchors. Can be top roped from School Room #2.
Protection There are two drilled angles and one bolt leading to sling anchors, a couple of larger cams(#4) could be used to protect a longer fall between the second and third bolts but not necessary.
The crux can also be done as a cool stem problem.
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Mike Robinson
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BETA PHOTO: Pushing through the crux above the last bolt (3 of...
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| Comments on Lacto Mangulation |
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By Jonathan Amburgey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 23, 2008
| Some beta: The route has 3 bolts that lead to a two-bolt anchor (one with a rappel ring; the other linked chain). The crux is the last 8 feet or so above the last bolt to the anchors. Though I didn't use any pro, a piece in the upper section between the last bolt and anchors might be warranted if you're feeling less-than-confident using tiny finger jams. Solid feet and creative hand-work are needed.
Good route; I really enjoyed it. |
By Dan Cillo
From: The Great State -Colorado
Oct 28, 2009
| Fun route. Good easy climbing leads to the crux which is strenous due to lack of soild feet on small tips fingers. Good warm up for some of the other routes on Wall Street. |
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