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Lacto Mangulation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jorma Hayes, 1 April 1995
Page Views: 3,691
Submitted By: Darin Powell on Apr 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (119)
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Mike Robinson


Lacto Mangulation is the first route left of Top Forty and the last route before School Room #2. It starts on a small face for about 20 feet (5.6) to a ledge and then follows a right facing dihedral that starts as a fist crack and ends up as a small finger crack. The last 8 feet is the crux. Rap from slung anchors. Can be top roped from School Room #2.


There are two drilled angles and one bolt leading to sling anchors, a couple of larger cams(#4) could be used to protect a longer fall between the second and third bolts but not necessary.

Photos of Lacto Mangulation Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Jones reaches for a hand jam on top rope nea...
Jason Jones reaches for a hand jam on top rope nea...
The crux can also be done as a cool stem problem.
The crux can also be done as a cool stem problem.
Pushing through the crux above the last bolt (3 of...
BETA PHOTO: Pushing through the crux above the last bolt (3 of...

Comments on Lacto Mangulation Add Comment
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By Jonathan Amburgey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 23, 2008

Some beta: The route has 3 bolts that lead to a two-bolt anchor (one with a rappel ring; the other linked chain). The crux is the last 8 feet or so above the last bolt to the anchors. Though I didn't use any pro, a piece in the upper section between the last bolt and anchors might be warranted if you're feeling less-than-confident using tiny finger jams. Solid feet and creative hand-work are needed.

Good route; I really enjoyed it.
By CanDillo
From: The Great State -Colorado
Oct 28, 2009

Fun route. Good easy climbing leads to the crux which is strenous due to lack of soild feet on small tips fingers. Good warm up for some of the other routes on Wall Street.
By Tate
From: Durango CO
Mar 17, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Bring a #3 c4 or even a #4 friend to protect from ledge fall before the last bolt.
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