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Lactic Tactics 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Drysdale, 1986.
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Ben jamming the start under the roof.
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a cool roof route that is strenuous and steep. Start in an alcove and climb the inside right corner up to the roof. This initial crack is hand size and offers good jams. Now, lieback the thin roof for about 8 feet. Make a tough move to get out of the roof, and get a bomber fingerlock. This ends the difficulties.


Protection 

Medium stoppers, cams from 0.5-3 friend, doubles in the 1 and 2 sizes. No anchor on top.



Photos of Lactic Tactics Slideshow Add Photo
Dan using some nice stemming technique.
Dan using some nice stemming technique.
BETA PHOTO
Dan Mottinger finishing out the roof.
Dan Mottinger finishing out the roof.
Ben stemming under the roof.
Ben stemming under the roof.
Darin Lang jamming Lactic Tactics.
Darin Lang jamming Lactic Tactics.
Comments on Lactic Tactics Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Apr 1, 2002

It would be wise to resist the temptation to stick a #2 Camalot into the perfect hand jam plainly visible in the photo of a certain flailing climber below. Two letter grades harder with the cam in place - that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

By Darin Lang
May 7, 2002

It should be noted that the lower section of this climb passes very near a cave that is loaded to the gills with a heapin' helpin' of bat guano. Although in less educated times the bat guano mines in the Atacama were thought to be Chile's economic salvation, we now know it to be a veritable petri dish chock full of E.Coli O157:H7, encephalitis, meningitis, and all other kinds of -itises. Exercise caution and, should you happen across an unoccupied bat nest, give its eggs a good shake. I for one am sick and tired of bats, bees, ants, pigeons, wasps, dogs, and pillbugs ruining my outdoor experiences.

By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2002

Darin,

Think before you rant. Do you think climbers are the only people perusing this web site? Land managers take a peek to see what climbers are up to also. Recommending that climbers destroy bat eggs is WRONG! You are on the bat's turf. Recall there are area closures for bats as well as other birds. What next, shake the eggs of peregrine and prairie falcons? You best not exacerbate the tension between climbers and land managers.

If you are truly _sick and tired of bats, bees, ants, pigeons, wasps, dogs, and pillbugs ruining (your) outdoor experiences_ then the Boulder Rock Club has a lifetime membership waiting for you.

By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2002

FWIW - Bats are mammals - they don't lay eggs!

By Darin Lang
May 8, 2002

AC (or AC's): No offense intended, as I agree with most of the above. A rant? Probably. Against animals? Nope. I am not tired of seeing animals of any kind, either at the base of the climb or on it - but I am tired of the irritating stupidity that seems to pervade such issues on this site (see Dog and Pigeon posts).

Is a response of this nature appropriate for this site? I suppose we can disagree about that, but I would argue that it is no less appropriate than the original suggestions which provoked the response. I would be more concerned that occasional visitors to the site would get the impression that all the climbers are attacking dogs with sharp rocks, bringing a can of Raid to fend off mid-climb ants, and shaking every pigeon egg that stands between us and glory.

I am a bit concerned at the lack of recognition of what I feel to be the obvious sarcasm of my remark. Certainly I am aware that bats do not lay eggs - I had hoped that would be a clue. Perhaps I overestimate my writing abilities ...

By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2002

I once shot a Monotremata in my pajamas. What he was doing in my pajamas I'll never know. I then went around the difficult task of removing his tusks. Except in Alabama where the tusks r loosa. But that's irrelephant.