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Cactus Cliff
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LaCholla Jackson 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & Bob D'Antonio, 1999
Page Views: 8,612
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).

Description 

To find this route, make your way down the Cactus Cliff line far to the right of the parking lot. Close to the end of the cliff, you will come across a large dihedral alcove with three crack systems on the left of the dihedral. On the right arete will be a bolted route with a roof half way up it and another large roof higher that has a couple of bolts on its lip. LaCholla Jackson is the route to the left of the arete with a finger crack start.

This has fun climbing past ten bolts. It is highly recommended. This is a good warm-up climb for this area or a nice intermediate climber lead.


Protection 

10 quickdraws and 2 anchors.



Photos of LaCholla Jackson Slideshow Add Photo
Anna cruising up LaCholla Jackson.
Anna cruising up LaCholla Jackson.
Turbo climbing 2/3 of the way up.
Turbo climbing 2/3 of the way up.
Get those hands in the crack!
Get those hands in the crack!
Starting "LaCholla Jackson".
Starting "LaCholla Jackson".
Mid-way.
Mid-way.
Larger view of the rock.
Larger view of the rock.
LaCholla Jackson.  Climb the steep corner with stems, laybacks, and face moves.
BETA PHOTO: LaCholla Jackson. Climb the steep corner with ste...
Dan Howell leading LaCholla Jackson.
Dan Howell leading LaCholla Jackson.
Busy day!
Busy day!
Sarah about to clip.
Sarah about to clip.
Curt making it look easy.
Curt making it look easy.
I love stemming. <br /> <br />Photo by Buster Jesik.
I love stemming.

Photo by Buster Jesik.
Can you tell me which bolt this brachiopod is next to..?
Can you tell me which bolt this brachiopod is next...
Sherri working her way up & looking focused.
Sherri working her way up & looking focused.
Dana Walenta leading LaCholla Jackson.
Dana Walenta leading LaCholla Jackson.
Route.
Route.
Us and some climbers on Hero Driver.
Us and some climbers on Hero Driver.
Comments on LaCholla Jackson Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 18, 2011
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Apr 12, 2002

As the book says, this route is '5.8' and very enjoyable for the grade, a great warmup on long good quality rock (except for some things just right of the bolt line towards the top 15 feet) This is for sure a 3 star route and everyone should enjoy climbing 'la-choya'. Climb hard.

By Brad Short
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Mar 10, 2003

I think the route can be made 5.9 by staying slightly left of the bolts. But the path of least resistance stays on the bolt line, and sometimes uses cracks right of the bolts. Moderate routes don't get much better than this.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 21, 2004

Great climb to run some laps on to get a good burn at the end of the day.

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Mar 28, 2004

Watch out for loose stuff at the top. I took off a head-sized chunk that would have killed someone not paying attention! There is a lot more in the crack at the top on the climber's right, so stay away. Great route anyways.

By Dan Battin
Nov 3, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I thought La Cholla was a 5.8.

By Nate Oakes
May 14, 2007

Climbed this route yesterday, found it quite enjoyable. Found the crux to be near the 5th and 6th bolts. Well-protected, good holds, clean rock until the top. Watch for a semi-loose chalked rock to the right near the 10th bolt.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I think this route gets a bit harder if you don't use (and I wouldn't) the two lose holds near the 10th clip. Sort of pumpy for a 5.8- like the Sharp End book states.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 24, 2008

Be careful on this one. The gully to the left dropped about (10) 20-40lb blocks about 2 feet from my wife's head. By far the scariest thing I've ever witnessed especially seeing them coming right down on top of her. This happened without warning. No animals, or people present above the cliff. Just a sandy rocky gully at the top. Needless to say I went out and bought her a helmet the next day. Oh yeah the climbing was pretty cool.

By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is a fantastic route. I felt the crux was around the 2nd bolt, the crack is too thin for use there but there are some good pockets. Look around closely for footholds, they are there. Above that the route is consistent 5.8 with some nice hand jams and small ledges for feet. There even a section to use a crack for the right hand and another for the left. Cool! Super fun route and highly recommended for moderate leaders. Mostly left handed clips, probably easier to keep most of the draws on the left side of your harness. Climbed it twice today.

By Luke Childers
Jan 2, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Nice line. Soft for the grade. I felt it was more in the 5.7 range, but very much worth climbing. The anchors were in a strange place. I think if they were where the last bolt currently exist it would make more since, but that is just nit picking. Great route and all should climb before just walking by it.

By jesse mascarenas
Jan 16, 2009

5.7? No way. This is a great route, and considering the location and skills needed to red point, this route it is not in the 5.7 range. If this were in the South Platte maybe 5.7.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

As good as advertised and didn't seem all that hard for 5.8. Continuous but varied movement, nice (but somewhat polished) rock, neat line, great setting. The only downside is that it's hard to get on during a weekend.

By BabyAlex
Jun 27, 2011

Careful about loose rock on this route (and Cactus Cliff in general). Holds are marked with Xs, but recently a large hold broke off, hit my belayer, and caused an ER visit.

By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Getting polished but overall a fun climb. Good varied face and crack moves.