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Lac Long

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Lac Long 


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Location: 46.81286, -72.10099 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Luc on Apr 30, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Lac Long Climbing Area
This Cliff is insured for liability by the FQME MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Lac Long has now become the newest jewel for rock-climbing in Quebec.
With the work of climbers, outdoor organizations and the city of St-Alban, the area was purchased in 2008 to allow secured access for the future, the whole area is being converted into a nature park allowing rock-climbing.

Please check the parks website for relevant access issues, camping and more information.
ACTION PLANS D'EAU PLEIN AIR
2, rang de l'église sud, C.p. 339
Saint-Alban de Portneuf (Québec)
Canada G0A 3B0
www.natureportneuf.com
info@natureportneuf.com
+1-418-284-4232 phone
+1-855-284-4232 toll free

The Cliff is located on the other side of the lake and stream running from it, on the north end a fixed Tyrolean traverse a bit south from the dam.

Even though it sports many sport routes, the area's ethics emphasizes Trad climbing, don't expect to find bolts when trad pro will fit.

Belays are equipped with bolts and chains, don't top-rope directly off the chains or glue ins, don't lower off the glue-ins, avoid lowering off the chains (rap if you can), on popular routes, don't hog the bolts and chain ends (leave them free for people descending).

Gear
60m single rope is ok, though it might be tight on some raps. Bring a full range rack from multiple small cams and nuts to larger pieces.
A metal sheath pulley or steel biner is useful for getting across the river's 1/2" steel cable.

Parking
Use the first parking lot, Parking is $5.00 you can always carpool in Saint-Alban if you want.

Some info on EQ

PDF Topo 2014:
version Francaise sur Escalade Quebec
English version on Escalade Quebec
Designed by Arian Manchego
Illustrations Valérie Levée, Jeff Beaulieu
Translation A. Manchego, Loic Briand


Getting There 

From Montreal 2 h 30 min

  • Highway 40 East
  • Exit 254 to the 363 North
  • At the entrance of Saint-Marc-des-Carrieres, take a right at the fork onto Avenue Principale
  • Continue heading North on Rang de l'Eglise S
  • Cross the 354 towards Saint-Alban
  • Cross the Saint-Anne River (there's Saint-Anne Gorges climbing area on your left)
  • Stay on rue principale/Rang de l'Eglise N, cross the town heading North-East
  • After a left curve, you're now on Route Montambault
  • At a sharp right turn, take a left onto a dirt road heading North-West (the road on the right is rang de la Riviere Noire)
  • Drive for 2km to a Tee intersection, take a right on chemin du lac Long.
  • Drive for 7km and park at the first lot, the next lots are for cars with trailers.

From Quebec
  • Highway 40 West
same as above


Climbing Season


110 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',12],['5.9',11],['5.10',38],['5.11',23],['5.12',13],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Lac Long
La voie était recouverte d'un mince verglas pour agrémenter le tout :)

Incandescence 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  North America : Canada : ... : 6 l’Antre du Dragon
Start in the dihedral to the right (5.9). When you arrive at the big ledge, continue via the beautiful crack on the right face (5.10a) or by the dihedral at the back (5.8). The last roof goes straight, it’s very cool! Or you can chicken off to the right....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Lac Long Add Comment
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By rocknice2
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 2, 2014

PDF Topo 2014:
version Francaise
English version