All climbers must have: -FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$) -For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$) Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial. The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection. www.fqme.qc.ca
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Lac Long has now become the newest jewel for rock-climbing in Quebec. With the work of climbers, outdoor organizations and the city of St-Alban, the area was purchased in 2008 to allow secured access for the future, the whole area is being converted into a nature park allowing rock-climbing.
Please check the parks website for relevant access issues, camping and more information. ACTION PLANS D'EAU PLEIN AIR 2, rang de l'église sud, C.p. 339 Saint-Alban de Portneuf (Québec) Canada G0A 3B0 www.natureportneuf.com email@example.com +1-418-284-4232 phone +1-855-284-4232 toll free
The Cliff is located on the other side of the lake and stream running from it, on the north end, a dam allows the crossing (under construction) and a fixed Tyrolean traverse further south.
There's about a hundred routes here with more to come:
3 x 5.7
11 x 5.8
12 x 5.9
34 x 5.10
24 x 5.11
10 x 5.12
1 x 5.13
54 trad, 24 sport, 24 mixed.
Even though it sports many sport routes, the area's ethics emphasizes Trad climbing, don't expect to find bolts when trad pro will fit.
Belays are equipped with bolts and chains, don't top-rope directly off the chains or glue ins, don't lower off the glue-ins, avoid lowering off the chains (rap if you can), on popular routes, don't hog the bolts and chain ends (leave them free for people descending).
Gear 60m single rope is ok, though it might be tight on some raps. Bring a full range rack from multiple small cams and nuts to larger pieces. A metal sheath pulley or steel biner is useful for getting across the river's 1/2" steel cable.
Parking Use the first parking lot, Parking is $5.00 you can always carpool in Saint-Alban if you want.
1st pitch, 5.9+ 20m. Start in the beautiful hand crack in the right-facing corner. Climb to reach the bolted belay station on the ledge, under the big roof.2nd pitch, 5.9 20m: Pass the big roof on its left. Once past the roof, follow the wide diagonal crack up and right. Superb!At the final anchor, belay your second with a setup that allows you to feed out slack under tension. If your second doesn't succeed the traverse under the roof, he or she will swing out, away from the wall. If this happen...[more]Browse More Classics in International