All climbers must have: -FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$) -For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$) Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial. The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection. www.fqme.qc.ca
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Lac Long has now become the newest jewel for rock-climbing in Quebec. With the work of climbers, outdoor organizations and the city of St-Alban, the area was purchased in 2008 to allow secured access for the future, the whole area is being converted into a nature park allowing rock-climbing.
Please check the parks website for relevant access issues, camping and more information. ACTION PLANS D'EAU PLEIN AIR 2, rang de l'église sud, C.p. 339 Saint-Alban de Portneuf (Québec) Canada G0A 3B0 www.natureportneuf.com firstname.lastname@example.org +1-418-284-4232 phone +1-855-284-4232 toll free
The Cliff is located on the other side of the lake and stream running from it, on the north end a fixed Tyrolean traverse a bit south from the dam.
Even though it sports many sport routes, the area's ethics emphasizes Trad climbing, don't expect to find bolts when trad pro will fit.
Belays are equipped with bolts and chains, don't top-rope directly off the chains or glue ins, don't lower off the glue-ins, avoid lowering off the chains (rap if you can), on popular routes, don't hog the bolts and chain ends (leave them free for people descending).
Gear 60m single rope is ok, though it might be tight on some raps. Bring a full range rack from multiple small cams and nuts to larger pieces. A metal sheath pulley or steel biner is useful for getting across the river's 1/2" steel cable.
Parking Use the first parking lot, Parking is $5.00 you can always carpool in Saint-Alban if you want.
Start in the dihedral to the right (5.9). When you arrive at the big ledge, continue via the beautiful crack on the right face (5.10a) or by the dihedral at the back (5.8). The last roof goes straight, it’s very cool! Or you can chicken off to the right....[more]Browse More Classics in International