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3. Big Wall
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Labyrinth Wall Direct 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Lots of people through different Variations.
Page Views: 3,005
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Mar 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Paul Ross at the bivy site top of P5 on the First ...

Description 

Start roughly 60 feet or so right of VMC DD, you will want to start below a small right facing corner with a bolt in it, climb past this to the left side of a huge overlap, climb the left side of the overlap to a bolt anchor (5.10)

Move right off the belay and climb a left facing corner to a belay on the right (5.8)

Climb straight up past bolts to a set of two ledges in an amphitheater/alcove (5.10+)

Follow bolts out the left side of the amphitheater to a left facing corner and the belay (5.11)

Move right from the belay following bolts to a vertical wall on the right, climb this to a small niche belay (the original aid line goes straight up from this belay on rivets....dont do it) (5.11)

Climb left on bolts until you are above an overlap, step back under it until you are right of a very thin vertical crack, continue to a stance on the right. (5.8)

On the left will be a short arch leading to a large ledge. (5.11)

climb a right facing corner to flakes moving right to a bolt anchor (5.10)

Finish up on YMC Dike (5.8) to the top.

There are many variations to this route to get to the top, in my opinion "Walk on the Wild Side" is the easiest both to follow and to get off. On the sixth pitch there is a variation that climbs the original A4 crux seam with bolts at 5.11.

Expect that all the pitches will have some sort of cannon trickery commonly experienced on all long cannon free routes.

This was a pretty monumental route to climb for me I first climbed the first five pitches but had to aid through the alcove 5.11 pitch, this summer ill be psyched to come back and get it clean.





Location 

center of the big wall, look for the huge arch and the amphitheater hanging up high.


Protection 

Double set of cams from small techy to 3", micronuts, quickdraws and extendable draws.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 21, 2014
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 5, 2012

This line, with the direct finish is just SO demanding. To really do this one, onsight and totally free is a big deal in my book.
i think I went 4 or 5 times to get it.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 16, 2012

Got caught in a huge thunderstorm on top of 2, scary stuff. Waterfalls and debris abound!

By Rick Mix
From: Nederland, Colorado
May 22, 2012

What a route! Did what may have been the 2nd free ascent with Erik Wagg and Jim Shimberg. It was a while ago! Finished on WOTWS. Super good!

By paulmadry
Jun 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This a very non-physical climb at the grade (with two short strenuos sections). I assume that the old aid bolts were replaced with shiny new ones and the route has a feel of a sport route at times. After the last 5.11 section left traverse, from the ledge we went slightly right but mostly straight up for a pitch (to s multibolt belay) and seeing end of difficulties rapped down with double rope. I initially graded it as G but after repeating it recently I'd say its 5.11G but 5.9+ R. The pro or bolts are there but would not stop you from hitting the slab/ledges and break your ankles in many sections if you fall.

By paulmadry
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Could anyone comment on pro on the original Lab Wall finish (not Walk on the Wild side)?
Thanks

By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2012

Paul- if you mean the direct finish.. it's been a while and I'm sure stuff has changed but,

the gear was OK with work,,, cams under overlaps and such. we didn't use double ropes but it might be a good idea. It's pretty confusing up there and though not strenno, it is time consuming and hard.

By AMMara
May 16, 2014

Does anyone have information on aiding this route? Does it go clean? What is the aid rating?
Thanks

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 16, 2014

Prolly , maybe clean aid ? i would guess C3+ for sure. The old fixed pieces must be pretty mank..it was originally A4 (several pitches)

By burlap submariner
May 20, 2014

NHclimber might have some info for you, or at least a funny story about getting caught in a thunder storm out there.

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 21, 2014

Ha Ha burlap..its really funny when you almost ,, almost are there and then BANG ! no more climbing today.

By Derek Doucet
Jul 21, 2014

I agree with Paul's comment above. The cruxes are quite reasonably protected, but there are certainly numerous "don't fall" moments on easier (.9+ sounds about right) terrain. There are also numerous pins in varying states of decay and they are frequently impossible to back up. How good are they? No way to tell, so best not to fall on them. There are a couple of spots where a blown pin would have very serious consequences. As with all Cannon routes, questionable rock abounds as well. Particularly memorable is the 3' long razor sharp meat-cleaver flake defying gravity under the roof on p4. I really have no idea what's keeping it there. There's certainly no need to touch it, but there are useful holds in close proximity, so care is certainly required. Regardless, it's a fantastic pitch and route.