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Round Pond
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3 Guppies in a Plastic Bag 
A Swift Kick to the Head 
Arch Nemesis 
Baby's Cry, The 
Ball and Chain 
Becoming, The 
Brain Supreme 
Brett's Problem 
Bring the Ruckus 
Call & Response 
Cause for Commotion 
Cosmic Cam 
Creatine Buffer, The 
Crimp Problem 
Crimp Problem SDS, The 
Cut Up 
Debbie Does 
DJ Dan 
Double Deuce 
Elephant Back 
Gator Pussy 
Gimme Crack 
Golden Arches 
High Tech Issues 
Hueco Problem, The 
Iced Tea 
Ill Saint 
Jelly Belly 
Jitterbug (aka Try Again), The 
John's Problem 
Just Stand Up 
Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) 
Lip Sync 
Midget Porn 
My Brothers Wife 
Oblivious to Danger 
Oyster's Ridge 
Rock On 
Wet Spot, The 
Whip, The 
Wreck Em 

Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 1,340
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The arete to the left...


A slopey lip traverse. Sit start with both hands matched on the lowest part of the lip. Traverse left on friction-dependent holds until you can grab the back arete and mantle over onto the face and topout.

Due to aggressive brushing, the holds are becoming more polished.


The lowest boulder in Round Pond. As you walk into the boulders, it is the first one on the left and has a hueco visible near the top.



Photos of Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: not a great picture but a great problem... Lily wo...
not a great picture but a great problem... Lily wo...

Comments on Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 13, 2010
rating: V5 6C

Has anyone done the traverse that goes right from the start point?
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 19, 2012

I'd like to know the "official" starting position of the hands on this problem. Does it start:
1) On the crimp on the face (chalked in the photo of Lily above)
2) directly above said crimp
3) where Lily's right hand is in the photo above
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 27, 2013
rating: V5 6C


Since no one else has answered your question, I will attempt to.

Having climbed this problem a few times, I would say that the most logical starting place is matched on the lowest sloper that actually has some texture to it. (So, basically where Lily's right hand is) There are two miserable, glassy slopers to the right. I've done it from those holds as well, and it is perhaps a little bit harder but definitely not better. I would say that if you start matched on the hold suggested above, the climb is low to mid grade v5. If you start on the holds to the right, the climb is hard v5.

So, as in most climbing, it's up to you. Hope that helps.
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Jun 21, 2013

matthew- i've heard that the traverse that goes the other way is unsent and really hard, v8 or something like that.
By BDalhaus
From: Manchester, NH
Aug 27, 2013

Traverse to the right has been sent and is probably V4. There are large underclings that make it much easier than it looks.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 16, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Yah, Bryce is spot on. I finally got around to trying the right variation the other day and it's definitely no harder than v4 and is definitely easier than 'Labrador Dreams' proper.

The difficulty will vary slightly depending on where exactly you start, but you basically start just to the right of the lowest part of the boulder (just left of where the underclings start if I remember correctly). I didn't use the underclings at all. I just pulled off the ground threw a heel on and bumped along on the slopers until reaching the good holds out right.

Pretty straight forward and not anywhere near as good as its neighbor since it is kind of lowball and butt draggy.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Gave this a good chalking and almost sent today. Tis the season for slopers!

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