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Labor of Love 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Rhicard & Toivo Kodas, 9/87
Page Views: 2,555
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

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Description 

This climb is located just to the right of "The Line". It is a fun dike climb with big reaches and runouts. If you are short, this climb may feel like 5.11. It will probably feel on the easy side if you tall. The crux is well protected, but there are 15-20ft runouts on easier rock. Rap with two ropes from chains...

Protection 

bolts..


Photos of Labor of Love Slideshow Add Photo
Just past the first bolt, which is a ways up there...
Just past the first bolt, which is a ways up there...
Does anyone know this guy?  If so, please contact me: I have a lot of pics of him on this route and told him I would gladly send him copies, but I never saw him again or got his name. <br /> <br />Taken July 2009 from the first belay on The Line
Does anyone know this guy? If so, please contact ...

Comments on Labor of Love Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 6, 2014
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006

Seems a little silly but I would like to set the record straight. This route was envisioned by me and was hand drilled ground up by me. Thus the name. It was then lead bottom to top by me and seconded by Toivo Kodas. The entire route was done on 9/12/87. We originally called it 5.9 for tall folks and 10- if you are short like me. Glad to see it is getting climbed as it was a lot of work to put it up.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Apr 6, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Calling that route a sport route is retarded, (no offence). It is most definitely a trad route with bolts for pro. A masterpiece of good style if I may say so myself.
By Andrew Klein
May 3, 2006

I'm 6'1" and the route felt about 5.10a to me. There was always a great bolt right where you wanted it.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007

This climb gets my vote for the best 5.10 dike pitch at the Leap. I forgot how scary the climb is. There are some 5.9 mantles about 15-20ft out from the bolts. You will remember this climb after the rest become a distant memory.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2009

I don't know Andrew. I always wanted the bolt to be within reach before making the awkward mantle. It always seemed like I was making the hardest move 15 ft above my last bolt, then making the clip.
Fun but scary route.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Oct 26, 2009

5.9 for tall folks is fair, didn't seem like there were any "crux mantles 15 feet above bolts". I felt very secure on the easier climbing between bolts and also at the distinct crux with the bolt at my chest.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Nov 1, 2011

I didn't realize this was your route Eric. Well done.

I think this was the first route I did at the Leap, which would mean it was the first pitch I had climbed in 6 weeks. I remember it taking a while to get used to the style, but I don't think I did any hard moves 15 feet above a bolt.

Fun climbing either way.
By Patrick M.
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X

I would say if you are less than 6 foot tall, stay away from this climb. There is a solid and super delicate 5.11 move below the first bolt which is 25+ feet up. IMHO, it's not worth it.

It's possible to climb the first pitch of the Line and traverse to the bolted anchor to install a top rope.
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I remember one very hard, height dependent move. The rest is solid 5.9/5.10-.
If you have the supertopo guide, disregard the recommended gear on the topo page -- this is a strictly bolted climb with no gear.
By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Jun 14, 2014

A couple of things, I just did this route. You cannot rap off the first pitch w/a 70m, it's about 20ft. short...need two ropes as mentioned in route description. There are no hard mantles 20ft out from bolts. It's probably 5.9ish between bolts, with a definite crux at one of the bolts. Clipping the first bolt there is at most a 10a move to get up to where you can clip it. I'm a 5.11 face climber and 5'8"...the crux was 5.11 for me and was not able to get it clean as the hold is 6 inches out of reach. I'd say it's mid 5.11 for anyone under 6 feet tall as others mentioned. Excellent face climb.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

I don't know, I'm not 6 feet tall and the crux move is maybe just a little delicate smear move to reach the hold with a bolt in your face. I've seen short people walk it that weren't 5.11 climbers. You just gotta step up on that dike nubbin and trust the rubber.

As for X or R rated or whatever, yeah right! There's maybe 12' or at most 15' between bolts through the easier sections with all the cruxy moves next to a bolt. To the first bolt is a 5.6 dike hike. I only give it a PG 13 because of all those meaty dikes below. I don't know, if this feels really runnout to you, you're in for one hell of a surprise if you keep climbing and one day decide to branch out in the "trad" world.

And for all our sake, don't even think about ever doing the second and third pitches... ever!
By Kyle Napierkowski
Jul 6, 2014

We rapped this route today with a single 70m rope. It required downclimbing from just below the first bolt, about 15 ft down the easy 5.5ish dikes. Just be careful to watch the end of your rope and keep the ends even