Labatt-Ami 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bill Simes and Chuck Turner, 4/30/82 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007 |
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In need of a Labatt-Ami...
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Description Roof cracks don't get much better than this one!
This was the first line climbed at the Beer Walls, and named after the first ascentionists' fantasy on that warm spring day in '82.
Commence this climb in a blocky right-facing corner that leads to large ledge about 40 feet up. Either belay your second up to the ledge, or continue up the steepening right-facing corner.
Either way, you will eventually come to a large crack under the massive roof that casts an ominous shadow on you. Protect this with a #4 Camalot and move out left and up around the roof on buckets. Fight the sustained crack to the top, plop yourself onto the final belay ledge, and clip the chains.
This is also a great way to introduce yourself to multi-pitch climbing, as the belay ledge is as large as a car and offers several options for belaying your second.
Location At the far right end of the Upper Beer Walls is the unmistakable right-facing corner capped by one of the largest roofs in the Dacks. This is the line.
Protection A large rack with several larger pieces, including 1 #4 Camalot and a couple #3s.
Melissa Feldmann climbs at the top of Labatt-Ami(5...
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View of route from the base. Great climb, sustaine...
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Paul Deagle - Labatt-Ami - great climb, well prote...
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By Matt Glue
From: Albany, NY
Aug 2, 2010
| You can skip the #4 and extra #3 and call it PG; there are smaller placements in the ledge just under the roof crack. But do save your larger pieces! |
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 31, 2011
| The rap anchors on this route are suspect. Both bolts spin and the one on the left bends when pushed against with body weight. These need to be replaced asap |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Great route with a variety of moves. Ledges at bottom are the only drawback, not being as interesting as the final 50 feet. |
By Matt Baer
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| Great route, fun traverse to an off-width finish |
By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.7
| In my couple times leading this route, I think I even used two 4 inch cams, but if I recall correctly, you can just place 3 inch cams deep in the crack so long as you sling them long to avoid what would be heinous rope drag. |
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