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Lost Horse Wall - Left Side
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Are You Experienced T 
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LA Woman 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood, Kelly Vaught, and Chris Baumann, January 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Getting into the crux, LA Woman 5.11a ****

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Description 

Located on the Lost Horse Wall, center section, directly behind a large pinyon pine tree.

Start just left of Just Another Crack from LA and climb straight up the face past 11 bolts to a 2-bolt lower-off anchor (90 feet).

This is a fun, well-protected sport route with a variety of great moves. Sustained for its entire length in the 5.9/5.10- range. The hard to read crux at the 9th bolt makes for a tough on-sight. High on the fun factor- four out of five stars.

You can get an optional 4-inch CD (#4 camalot) in the crack below the 3rd bolt to make it super-duper well-protected.

The original (trad) start is just left, moving right (5.9, 3-inch CD) at a huge, down-pointing flake.


Protection 

11 bolts, 2-bolt lower-off anchor (90 feet)



Photos of LA Woman Slideshow Add Photo
A. LA Woman 5.11a <br /> <br />B. Just Another Crack from LA 5.9 R
BETA PHOTO: A. LA Woman 5.11a

B. Just Another Crack from LA 5...
Dave Snyder solves the riddle and goes for the anchors OS.
Dave Snyder solves the riddle and goes for the anc...
Dave Mayville, onsight flash  <br /> <br />photo by bob gaines
Dave Mayville, onsight flash

photo by bob gaines
Frank Bentwood leads LA Woman 5.11a **** <br /> <br />photo by bob gaines
Frank Bentwood leads LA Woman 5.11a ****

photo by...
On the way...
On the way...
Frank Bentwood leads LA Woman 5.11a **** <br /> <br />photo by bob gaines
Frank Bentwood leads LA Woman 5.11a ****

photo by...
Darin Limvere cruising LA Woman <br /> <br />photo by bob gaines
Darin Limvere cruising LA Woman

photo by bob gain...
Comments on LA Woman Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Crux is for certain getting beyond the 9th bolt. Well protected yes but finesse as JD stated, key. I cleaned the route after Russ thinking it may be a preview for the lead. Ultimately I just cleaned the draws with no second attempt on the sharp end. The route is very well protected, stiff moves at the crux I just lost steam for the lead. Appears that the crux may go a few different ways, direct was my mode of choice but even on the lower I tried it again and lost the power to pull it off again.

Nice route, still a bit grainy above so belayers beware. Also a loose flake above calling your name that is sure to come off once someone yards on it way towards the top. Which reminds me, the last section with the horn is pretty cool moves. Great addition guys, this route hasn't seen the last of us.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2014

Really good route! Climbs a nice series of features with adequate clipping stances and plenty of bolts. I botched the crux on my first try, pitched... hung, then looked for an alternate method out left or sorta straight up. (This is the way Susan decided to go, and shows some promise for next time) Eventually I walked the ramp out right and did the almost too high highstep all while pulling on some shallow crappy dishes. A few grunts, a bit of toe tapping, and I was home free. It was a hard and insecure move, but with a bolt right at your knee. I'd go 4.383 stars on the 5 star rating system. I can't really say how hard it is since I don't get out much, but it seemed pretty darn hard. 5.10+ for sure, and probably 11a when compared to similar stuff.

By Rolf Rybak
From: Vancouver BC
Jan 28, 2014

Almost got the on-sight but pitched off trying to rock over on the big left foot hold. A cool no hands rest somewhere around the 7th bolt. It would have been harder but my strong partner Aubrey hung the draws when she led it. That girl rocks!
It will definitely become a crowd pleaser, good continuos climbing with well thought out safe bolting.
I give it 4.5 stars, once the wee bit of grit gets removed.

By Gavin Bridgeman
From: Tustin, California
Mar 19, 2014

My first 11a lead in josh, and almost got the flash. Such a cool and thoughtful crux. Good movement and fun climbing make this climb a gem! I was so stoked, I lowered off and did it again. 4 out of 5 in my book!