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Description: Face and cracks on east-facing arete of the huge buttress located L of Transmission. Clip the first bolt then natural pro and more bolts to a body length roof (crux) for pitch 1; 4th class 40' to gain the top of the buttress and the anchors for Remission. Pitch 3 begins in a crack on the belay ledge. Bolts and pro bring you to a 5' roof split by a crack in the center. Climb above the roof on natural pro to the anchor.
bolts, small pro to #2 camalot
AMH up under the first roof. Pic by Nestor.
BETA PHOTO: View of La Vida Loca from the base.
AMH eyeing the onsight. Pic by Nestor.
The whole route, AMH circled near the top of pitch...
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Lots of fun. I remember the initial gear section (above the first bolt) being a bit fiddly but not too bad. The first roof is great!
|By Cody Ferguson|
From: Tempe, AZ
Sep 13, 2011
Great climb--an absolute must do!
|By Tim Heid|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I was a bit hesitant to jump on lead because of the looks of the gear from the ground. But as it turns out bomber gear drops in no problem and the climbing is really great. A handful of micro cams works well. Pulling the roof was tough.
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
Found the second roof to be harder, but perhaps that was a function of this being the last climb of a hard set of days. Pretty awesome route and I found the gear to be straighforward and solid. Remember to bring enough for the 2nd pitch, where a #2 or #3 will help ease nerves above the roof, as will a 0.5 between some bolts.