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L to R R to L Alpha
Chico T,TR 
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In Between T,TR 
L'Etonnante TR 
L'Oubliée T,TR 
La Valse T,TR 
Le Nez T,TR 
Sans Nom T,TR 

La Valse 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Luc on Oct 9, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Top section of Valse

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Getting the first 2m below you may be the crux!
once you've passed the odd vertical crack, head up into the corner on your left and follow it (pin) to a large ledge (belay possible here).
from the ledge, head straight up and a bit left of the belay (easy) or traverse diagonaly right passed a bolt and straight up to the top.

found a couple loose holds at the beginning, be careful!


Start at the obvious crack on the ledge right of the buttress.
Rap down, a 70m is more than enough to reach the bottom.


Double rack to 1"
Belays and raps are bolted.

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By ml242
Jun 22, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

there's an anchor about 3/4 of the way up, perhaps people top rop off it, but the full climb is too long *i think* for a 60m to top rope on. I was also grateful that there is a bolt for the slabby bit above that anchor, without it this would be pg13 or R easily. Nice climb, I can't rave over it like the guidebook does though.

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