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La Sportiva Mythos (Big Footed Initial Review)
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By Adam Wunsch
Aug 10, 2012
Rappelling on west bluff at devil's lake.

First review here, so let's go!


I found these shoes at a local climbing shop on sale and bought them after trying them on. I wear a 44.5 45 size shoe, so it is somewhat hard to find comfortable shoes. Before this pair, I owned some evolvs.

On to the review!
When trying them on, I loved the "moccasin" type leather and feel. It truly feels like a mini hug on your foot. The lacing system is pretty awesome and allows for a nice fit. This shoe is without a doubt a big wall/edging shoe. I would not recommend it whatsoever for bouldering. I would rather wear my evolvs.

When climbing, the edging is excellent and smearing is great. I have not used this outdoors yet (will be going Sunday or Monday), but I feel this will work well on smooth rock types as well as sandstone.

This shoe will stretch, so be aware. I prefer my bouldering shoe looser than my top rope shoe. So this shoe I got a half size down.

-Adam Link to shoe on LaSportiva Site


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 10, 2012
The Roach

Sorry but this shoe is not an edging shoe. It works great edging for about 10 or so pitches and then it quickly gets sloppy. Great for all day comfort, cracks and smearing.

Sorry to disagree but that's my experience with the mythos


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By Adam Wunsch
Aug 10, 2012
Rappelling on west bluff at devil's lake.

Josh Kornish wrote:
Sorry but this shoe is not an edging shoe. It works great edging for about 10 or so pitches and then it quickly gets sloppy. Great for all day comfort, cracks and smearing. Sorry to disagree but that's my experience with the mythos


Fair enough! As stated, I've only had them for a little while, so I cannot give a review of much weight, just and initial opinion.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Aug 10, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Out of the box, and while they're still somewhat fresh and stiff before stretch, they edge fairly well. However, it doesn't take long for these shoes to stretch and mold and soften up because they're leather and unlined.

Once they do, edging suffers considerably, which is ok. These shoes aren't for edging IMO. If you want edging, go for a Miura or Katana. If you want something that will conform to the contours of your feet that you can leave on all day and that will smear like a champ, then these are the shoes for you.

Buy small. My foot is around a 12.5/13 and I bought a 44 (which is roughly a 10.5) so two full (U.S.) sizes down. They fit nicely after stretch and I can wear them all day. One of the best things about these shoes is that because they are a comfort shoe, resoling and losing performance isn't that big of an issue. Mine are getting ready for their third pair of soles.

The one thing I don't like about these shoes is that they're not really ideal for low volume and narrow feet, which I have. Even though I sized down considerably, to get a snug fit, the laces are drawn almost completely together, and the heel isn't ideal for hooking- less ideal that one would expect for a non-performance shoe. If you want something that is built more for narrow, low volume feet, slightly more performance and less stretch, go for Scarpa Technos. They have a slighly more narrow toe box than the Mythos as well. Both shoes are great if you buy them knowing what they can and can't do, and you know your feet well enough to buy the right shoe for them. They Mythos are greatly overpriced for what they are IMO. YMMV.


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By Taylor Jenkins
Aug 10, 2012

I think the pricy nature of the Mythos has to be for the labor cost of threading the laces. I had to replace my laces after a rodent chewed mine and what a PITA it was. I've found that they actually hug my extremely narrow, low volume feet quite well but they never quite stretched enough to become the all day comfort shoe I was hoping for.


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Aug 11, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

I'm on my third pair of Mythos..... Best thin crack show ever IMHO!!!!!

I typically have to replace the laces after every weeklong crack trip. I just use 2mm cord. Have done it so much I'm pretty darn good at it now.......


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Aug 11, 2012
Sure, I can belay

Princess Mia wrote:
I'm on my third pair of Mythos..... Best thin crack show ever IMHO!!!!! I typically have to replace the laces after every weeklong crack trip. I just use 2mm cord. Have done it so much I'm pretty darn good at it now.......


What's your trick? Crochet hook? And how do you figure out how much extra lace to leave on the long side?

Mark


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 11, 2012
OTL

I've never worn Mythos, but have a pair of Scarpa Technos and a lot of the reviews on those from people who have owned both, were basically a Mythos-like shoe that can still edge. Still great for small cracks and all day trad. On closeout all over, so if you can find your size, they can be up to 50% off.

I wear size 12 in street shoes and went with 45.5 in the Technos. Can leave them on for 5 pitches with only a bit of discomfort. They're my more performance oriented trad shoe. (you know, help me crush 5.7 slab)


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Aug 11, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Matt N wrote:
I've never worn Mythos, but have a pair of Scarpa Technos and a lot of the reviews on those from people who have owned both, were basically a Mythos-like shoe that can still edge. Still great for small cracks and all day trad. On closeout all over, so if you can find your size, they can be up to 50% off. I wear size 12 in street shoes and went with 45.5 in the Technos. Can leave them on for 5 pitches with only a bit of discomfort. They're my more performance oriented trad shoe. (you know, help me crush 5.7 slab)


This is exactly what I think about these shoes. I'm a 12.5 and I wear a 45.5. The GD closeouts piss me off though because they never have my size.


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 11, 2012
The Roach

Matt N wrote:
I've never worn Mythos, but have a pair of Scarpa Technos and a lot of the reviews on those from people who have owned both, were basically a Mythos-like shoe that can still edge. Still great for small cracks and all day trad. On closeout all over, so if you can find your size, they can be up to 50% off. I wear size 12 in street shoes and went with 45.5 in the Technos. Can leave them on for 5 pitches with only a bit of discomfort. They're my more performance oriented trad shoe. (you know, help me crush 5.7 slab)


I don't know what you consider "edging" but neither the mythos nor the technos are good edging shoes.


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Aug 13, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

A small crochet hook is a pretty good idea..... I may have to try that. As for length, I just use about 5' plus, make it equal and then cut off the extra.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Aug 13, 2012

A review of a shoe that's been on the market for 21 years.


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