La Siuranella Rock Climbing
The left end of La Siuranella from near the parkin...
Though far less famous than the cliffs across the valley, La Siuranella offers a great collection of high quality routes, including some of Siurana's best pitches. The cliff is remote by local standards, and perhaps for this reason, it sees relatively little action while nearby cliffs teem with hordes of sun-burnt climbers. The routes are somewhat spread out, with the vast concentration on the left end of the cliff, and another small grouping at the far right, directly across from L'Olla. For many years La Siuranella offered only a handful of routes, but a recent surge in development has brought the number of routes to around 30, with grades ranging from 5.10 to 5.13+, and everything in between.
Unlike the bulk of Siurana's cliffs, La Siuranella faces East, and so receives shade most of the day, making this a great option on hot days. The cliff base is somewhat disjointed, and most routes begin from one of the ledges that run along the bottom of the cliff. A Via Ferrata system exists to expedite approaches between climbs, making the ledge business only a minor inconvenience.
When viewing the cliff from across the canyon, the first features to catch the eye are the enormous parallel corners of Diedre Roig (L) & Diedre Blanc (R). The primary concentration of routes, located to the left of Diedre Roig, surrounds the brilliant orange bulge of "Ramadan" (8b/5.13d) and its highly popular neighbor "L'Escamarla" (7c+/5.13a). The other group is located well to the right of Diedre Blanc, and features a small number of mostly 5.13 routes, in particular the classic "Outback" (7c+ or 8a+ with extension).
Park in the Valley Crags parking lot, as for Espero Primavera, L'Olla, etc. Follow the trail to Espero Primavera, and once at the cliff, continue west along the cliff base trail. The trail descends, and passes around an enormous detached pillar. To the left of the pillar is the tall orange wall of El Cargol, and the legendary overhanging cliff of El Pati left of that. Follow the main track for about 40 yds after passing the base of the big tower. Turn left onto a good trail. This trail heads North through the brush, and seems to be heading the wrong way, towards L'Olla. Eventually you will need to downclimb a 3' high stone wall to reach the bottom of the canyon. Make a hairpin turn here, staying on the main track, which heads back towards the left end of La Siuranella. The trail eventually climbs up to join La Siuranella just below Diedre Blanc. To reach the left side routes, head left along the cliff base. After ~20 yards, the trail climbs up to the first terrace, avoiding a talus field below. Traverse with care to an iron ladder in the rock that is used to reach the second terrace.
Climbing Season For the Catalonia area.
Weather station 14.5 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in La Siuranella
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for La Siuranella:
L'Escamarla 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For La Siuranella
L'Escamarla 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Europe
: ... : La Siuranella
La Siuranella's most popular hard route, and one of the best 13a's at Siurana, L'Escamarla is a classic overhanging jug haul, except for a few brief cruxy sections on brutally rounded edges and challenging feet. All of the lines on this beautiful orange-streaked bulge are extremely photogenic, so tow along a photog to position on the second tier. Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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