La Reina 

This is a fun, if a bit short lead. A good test for those breaking into 5.9 leading - it's a little steep and pumpy but features solid jams. You'll probably want gear to 2-2.5" though, as I recall it being sustained hands and tight hands, though it's been a while since I've done it.

josh

You can also get by nicely using just TCUs and small cams up to about a .75 BD, as the crack narrows toward the back.

My bad memory I guess ;) Fun route nonetheless. I consider it an "overlooked" route for sure...

Good short steep jaming exercise. Most of the flakes are creakers so place pro accordingly.

It is about to get alot harder when i climbed it i felt two key hand holds move quite a bit.

Careful with some of those flakes...a few are a bit flexy. Small gear works well. A bit short, or you could continue uprun-out un-protected chossy 5.4 jugs. If that's your sort of thing.

Soloed this onsight, and the flakes up high are distressingly thin and creaky, definitely not recommended for your solo circuit. You can stay off the flakes altogether, but it makes the route a bit harder, perhaps 10b.

Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack.

The start got my attention, but it seemed to ease from there. The flakes were a bit suspect, but not super scary or anything. I can understand them being more disconcerting on a solo. I just tossed my rope at the top of the crack and ran the belay strand over that to avoid it getting sucked down. Worthwhile tick.