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La Pomme d'or
WI5+
Avg: 3.9 from 18
votes
Routes in 08 Mont de l'Equerre
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La Loutre WI5-6 M5 |
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La Loutre (var) WI5+ M5 |
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La Pomme d'or WI5+ |
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La Ruée Vers L'or WI5+ M7 |
| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 6 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Kurt Winkler, Jim Tierney, march 1980 |
| Page Views: | 11,987 total · 79/month |
| Shared By: | M Hosmer on Nov 18, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
Access Issue: VERY IMPORTANT MESSAGE WHILE THE NEGOCIATION WITH THE PARK OCCURS (2024)
Details
1. Fill out the Ice Climbing Registration form, available online and in the reception basement (2024).
2. Acquit your daily access rights to SEPAQ like all other users.
3. Wait for trail 7 to open before crossing the river (2024).
4. Follow the rules stipulated on the registration form.
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L'accès à ce territoire est fragile. Avant de grimper dans les Hautes-Gorges, il est primordiale de respecter les règles mis en place par la SEPAQ.
1. Remplir le formulaire Enregistrement - Escalade de glace disponible en ligne et dans le sous-sol de l'accueil (2024).
2. Acquitter ses droits d'accès quotidien à la SEPAQ comme l'ensemble des usagers.
3. Attendre l'ouverture du sentier 7 avant de traverser la rivière (2024).
4. Suivre les règlements stipulés dans le formulaire d'enregistrement.
Description
La Pomme D'or is THE classic long ice route in La Malbaie, Quebec. Many climbers have cut their teeth on this beautiful climb. From multi day adventures to day long solos, this climb gets traffic and deserving so. This climb is a classic in every sense of the word.
The route can range from 5 to 6+ depending on your line of attack. The opening pitches are in the easy 4 range until about 1/3 the way up. Then things get steeper. On the upper 1/3 you can choose to move either right or left and select from vertical pillars to lower angle ice In my experience the far left was easiest with the right being harder.
P1 M3 PG/R 30m. First pitch below the headwall you go up on the right slab slinging bushes and sketchy rock pro. You can setup a belay here or start traversing left on the ramp but you also may want to simu-climb to avoid the drag to the next anchor.
P2 M3 PG/R 40m. Traverse left using rock pro and depending on the conditions you may end up placing stubbies in the ice. Anchor off of pitons at the end of the traverse, 5m right of the ice corner which marks the start of the ice climb.
P3 WI5 PG 50-60m. First 10m you may only get 10cm screws in though there’s some rock pro on the right.
P4 WI5 50-60m.
P5-6 WI5-6 50-60m. The second to last pitch is often the crux, a direct approach can get you into some WI6+ territory.
Location
On the river below the climb you can look up to scout your approach up the talus, and snowfield. There are alternative starts but the main route goes up a tight corner at the top of couloir that cannot really be seen from below.
If camping, You'll need to pay the fee and can only camp in designated spots like across the river on the road side there is a small designated camping site with a picnic table as well.
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