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Jimmy Cliff
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Air Mail S 
La Nuevo Esperanza T 
UB 31 S 
Un-Lucky Man T 
Van Almighty S 

La Nuevo Esperanza 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jay Brown, Jamie Miller
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Aug 22, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: La Nueva Esperanza, 5.12c.

Description 

Right 20 feet of UB 31. Climb up a easy fixed rope to a tree at the right edge of the slab at the bottom of the wall, up at 5.6 for 40 ft., then up twin seams at 5.10+ for 15 ft., then leave the right edge/arete of wall onto beautiful, golden, finger cracks at 5.12c/d (grade based on a kneebar, otherwise considerably harder!).

Location 

Right 20 feet of UB 31 .11c. Walk up and right through grassy area to a tree at start/dirt stance. Fixed biners/anchor. Watch your rope !!! it's a close one. A 60m does NOT make it, 6-8' short!!!

Protection 

1-#3 cam, 1-#2 cam, 1-#0.5 cam, 1 yellow micro cam, 2 blue TCU, 3 yellow TCU, 1 purple TCU, knee pad! there is a fixed nut in the crux now.


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