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> 15. Laurentians…
> Vache noire (Closed)
La Noire
WI4
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Vache noire (Closed)
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Jersey Milk WI4- |
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La Noire WI4 |
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Noire inconnue Center Gully TR WI3+ |
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Noire inconnue ferrata WI4 |
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Noire inconnue Left Face WI4+ |
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Noire inconnue left Gully WI4- |
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Noire inconnue Right Face TR WI4-5 |
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Vache qui rit WI4-5 |
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| Type: | Ice, 235 ft (71 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Normand Cadieux,Hubert Morin 1975 |
| Page Views: | 1,262 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Feb 5, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: SEPAQ has closed this area to climbing for the 2020-? seasons
Details
SEPAQ has closed this area to climbing for the 2020-? seasons. They say there is a land access issue for the approach trail, which is also closed to hiking. SEPAQ was unsure if it would open again next year. Contact your FQME friends to lobby for access - Vache Noire offers some of the best ice in the region!
Description
First pitch can be of lesser quality ice or stiffer than the suggested WI4.Belay on rock protection or screws depending on ice formation.Then follow the crusty snow/ice ramp to the left.Second pitch is the candy.Go up the gully/diedral that can be thin or even shy of yellowish ice on certain years.If the second pitch in entirely filled with ice,a standard rack of screws will protect it.If dryer,bring a few shorties as well as a standard rack of cams/nuts.A Laurentian Classic!
Location
Find 'Le Centennaire' trail that is a few hundred feet north(just before the bridge)of parking with self registration.
Walk the trail up the mountain for about 10-15 minutes until you see an emergency evacuation trail on the left (white cross on a red sign with #1 written).If you look up the cliff,you will have a good visual of ramp and second pitch(steep gully/diedral) of 'La Noire'.
Walk this trail for 1 minute and look for an orange flag on your right side...that will indicate the final approach(15-20min)to the route.
If early in the season,chances are that you will be opening the trail(try following orange flags or instinctively make your way up to the base of the route.
Walk the trail up the mountain for about 10-15 minutes until you see an emergency evacuation trail on the left (white cross on a red sign with #1 written).If you look up the cliff,you will have a good visual of ramp and second pitch(steep gully/diedral) of 'La Noire'.
Walk this trail for 1 minute and look for an orange flag on your right side...that will indicate the final approach(15-20min)to the route.
If early in the season,chances are that you will be opening the trail(try following orange flags or instinctively make your way up to the base of the route.
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