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La Maudite 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,543
Submitted By: Rick Thompson on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Description 

In English: "The Damned One". Given the name, I suppose you'll be damned if do, and damned if you don't. The climbing on this route isn't exactly your standard Monastic crimping fare. Instead, you'll find intriguing movement on sculpted rock that leads to robust finish. It is a bit unusual for the area and one of the area's longest and most varied of the grade.

Commence 12 feet right of "No Mystery Here" and romp over scooped-out features to gain the start of a seamed-out crack in a dish. Finesse your way past the delicate opening moves and continue up the crack/flake as it curves up and right to an exposed finish.

Protection 

13 clips.


Photos of La Maudite Slideshow Add Photo
Irina Overeem at the crux corner on La Maudite.  This is a fun route with interesting, varied climbing from bottom to top.
Irina Overeem at the crux corner on La Maudite. T...
Christa Cline stemming the curving, crystalline seam on La Maudite.
Christa Cline stemming the curving, crystalline se...
Near the finish of La Maudite.
Near the finish of La Maudite.

Comments on La Maudite Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A varied pitch with excellent climbing from bottom to top. Interesting face moves down low, delicate stemming in the crux corner, then fun laybacking and stemming up the arching crystalline seam to the top.One of the best routes I've done at the Monastery.
By Jason Shatek
Jul 28, 2005

A solid pitch; the climbing is pretty easy until you get to the crux 3/4 of the way up; the crux is stiff but the climbing afterward is not to be missed.
By Nate Oakes
Jun 11, 2007

Good route...I'd agree with a 10a rating. The crux for me was the inside corner 1/2 way up. A 60m rope just gets you to the ground a bit uphill from the start of the route. Bring plenty of draws, and make sure to enjoy the nice view of Longs and Meeker from the top!
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 11, 2007

Here's a good link to the story of the Chasse-galerie
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The crux is tough, I'd agree 10a. But it's not a sustained route. Good and varied!
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Sep 14, 2009

Climbed with my brother thinking we were on No Mystery Here, and that it was the hardest 5.7 we'd ever seen. When it gets hardest, I think the key was reaching around on your left to some great hand holds around the bulge. The ground slopes up steep on the right, so if you rappel to the side, you're good. We found our 60m rope had us both on the ground without an inch to spare.
By David Cooper
From: Annapolis, MD
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a really nice route. Bolts where you want them. Good rests along the way. No moves harder than 5.9, and with so many good rests and well placed bolts, can't see this graded harder than 5.9. Calls on a lot of different movement and technique which makes it a classic and may have some folks finding it more challenging if not experienced on varied rock.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 4, 2012

Did this thinking it was No Mystery Here. Ha, ha, ha. Not quite what I was expecting. The crux is entering the shallow gully feature 1/3 way up.