La Maudite 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2003 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Rick Thompson on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Irina Overeem at the crux corner on La Maudite. T...
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Description In English: "The Damned One". Given the name, I suppose you'll be damned if do, and damned if you don't. The climbing on this route isn't exactly your standard Monastic crimping fare. Instead, you'll find intriguing movement on sculpted rock that leads to robust finish. It is a bit unusual for the area and one of the area's longest and most varied of the grade.
Commence 12 feet right of "No Mystery Here" and romp over scooped-out features to gain the start of a seamed-out crack in a dish. Finesse your way past the delicate opening moves and continue up the crack/flake as it curves up and right to an exposed finish.
Protection 13 clips.
Christa Cline stemming the curving, crystalline se...
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| A varied pitch with excellent climbing from bottom to top. Interesting face moves down low, delicate stemming in the crux corner, then fun laybacking and stemming up the arching crystalline seam to the top.One of the best routes I've done at the Monastery. |
By Jason Shatek
Jul 28, 2005
| A solid pitch; the climbing is pretty easy until you get to the crux 3/4 of the way up; the crux is stiff but the climbing afterward is not to be missed. |
By Nate Oakes
Jun 11, 2007
| Good route...I'd agree with a 10a rating. The crux for me was the inside corner 1/2 way up. A 60m rope just gets you to the ground a bit uphill from the start of the route. Bring plenty of draws, and make sure to enjoy the nice view of Longs and Meeker from the top! |
By Ben Burnett
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| The crux is tough, I'd agree 10a. But it's not a sustained route. Good and varied! |
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Sep 14, 2009
| Climbed with my brother thinking we were on No Mystery Here, and that it was the hardest 5.7 we'd ever seen. When it gets hardest, I think the key was reaching around on your left to some great hand holds around the bulge. The ground slopes up steep on the right, so if you rappel to the side, you're good. We found our 60m rope had us both on the ground without an inch to spare. |
By David Cooper
From: Annapolis, MD
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.9
| This is a really nice route. Bolts where you want them. Good rests along the way. No moves harder than 5.9, and with so many good rests and well placed bolts, can't see this graded harder than 5.9. Calls on a lot of different movement and technique which makes it a classic and may have some folks finding it more challenging if not experienced on varied rock. |
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 4, 2012
| Did this thinking it was No Mystery Here. Ha, ha, ha. Not quite what I was expecting. The crux is entering the shallow gully feature 1/3 way up. |
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