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La Lune 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 1,707
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 8, 2007

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Bob Horan on 1st free, trad ascent of La Lune.

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  • Description 

    La Lune combines beauty, position, and pain to create a route that beckons and repels at the same time.

    The striking black and tan overhang is slashed with numerous discontinuous cracks and seams, creating a gorgeous effect and a very unique style of climbing. With cars racing through the canyon, the river raging below, and the steep terrain above, the exposure is unavoidable as you clip the first bolt 100 feet above the canyon floor.

    Trending slightly left along the most generous, and amazingly excuciating features, this route builds in difficulty and pain as you approach the top of the overhang. After pulling the lip continue up a dirty, unprotected 5.8 crack for 15 feet to the poorly placed anchors.

    It's worth noting that the first ascentionist redpointed this route using preplaced traditional gear. So if anyone is looking for a hard, painful project that is still waiting for a lead while placing the gear- here it is!

    If not for a some glue and the huge gobies on my fingers, this route would easily get four stars.

    Location 

    This route is located on an overhanging, black and tan streaked wall above Minutia, which could be used to approach La Lune. It's also possible to scramble up and right of La Lune and make some very exposed 5.6 moves to gain the base of La Lune. There is a two bolt anchor just before these moves on a large ledge and roping up is highly recommended, as a fall would certainly result in death. Once at the base of La Lune, there are two vertically staggered bolts that can be used as a belay anchor.

    Protection 

    This route is fully bolted, including an inconveniently placed two bolt anchor, which is about 5 feet to the right of the finishing crack.

    Some medium-sized Camalots could be used to protect the easy, but dirty, crack climbing between the last bolt and the chains.


    Photos of La Lune Slideshow Add Photo
    La Lune, 12d/13a.  First ascent by Bob Horan in 19...
    BETA PHOTO: La Lune, 12d/13a. First ascent by Bob Horan in 19...
    Looking down on La Lune's overhanging crack system...
    Looking down on La Lune's overhanging crack system...

    Comments on La Lune Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By LeeAB
    Administrator
    From: ABQ, NM
    Mar 14, 2009

    Was this actually lead only on pre-placed gear or was it lead placing the gear?

    I ask because in the photo of Bob H with the caption stating the FFA, he clearly has a bit of gear on his harness, which is pressumably there to be placed higher on the route.
    By Pinklebear
    Oct 14, 2012

    A Metolius No. 7 (BD No. 2 Camalot) was nice for the upper crack. I climbed level with the anchors to a no-hands at the top of the wall, downclimbed back to the cam, pulled it, and lowered off a biner that's been left on bolt 5. This saves your rope over the lip and the headache of getting out right to the anchor.

    Cool climb! Painful while working the beta (maybe tape your pinkies) but then not so painful when you figure out the sequences. Airy but safe. Enjoy!