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Wall of Justice
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L.A. Law 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Alan Nelson, 1992-1993
Page Views: 1,417
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on May 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the right side of the wall, just before the roof starts. Good holds all the way up, but shorter people may find a couple of the moves a bit reachy.


Protection 

You'll need 4 quickdraws to get to the anchor (now above the lip). Although there are 2 bolts at the anchor (right at the lip at the top of the route), only one of them has a hanger and chain on it. I like to see 2 bolts at every anchor, but I still used this one anyways.



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By Wendie
Jun 25, 2002

I actually thought this was harder than "Lawsuit," which is rated 10b! More overhanging & reachy. Fun once you figured out how to get to all the bolts (the 3rd is a bit far out).

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Apologies to Mr. Nelson, but I just hate this route. I like the majority of things he's put up, but this is just rot in my opinion.

By Robbie the Dog
Aug 21, 2006

This route can be a bit of a pain to TR, or to lower off. the crack about a foot left of the 4th (last) bolt can snag your rope quite well. A very short draw here (or a biner) will keep the rope from getting snagged.

The rest of it was fun.

By Vinny
Oct 24, 2006

So, yeah that "crack" definitely will snag your [rope] HARD CORE! To the point where I had to reclimb the entire route get to the top, and unsnag it, then wrap off the climb being careful not to get the rope caught or else it will wedge itself so far in that you are unable to get it out.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good route to begin learning overhangs. As others have mentioned, be very careful of the rope eating crack. There was a piece of cut rope still jammed in it today.

By Dan Stackhouse
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you clip your rope into a carabiner on the 4th bolt as you come down, it will keep it out of the crack.

By dameeser
From: denver
Apr 20, 2010

Yea..that damn crack + my buddy's thin rope. I had to set up a pulley system to get that be-otch out.

By gsmith
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The anchor has been moved above the lip since the description for this was written (so you climb up onto the ledge).

Left a biner on the top bolt to keep the rope out of the rope eating crack. Hopefully nobody takes it thinking its a bail biner - it makes getting down much nicer.

By Matt C
May 6, 2012

Thanks for leaving a directional biner! Unfortunately someone must have mistaken it for a bail biner, as you feared, because it wasn’t there yesterday.

By david Graham
Jul 29, 2014

Yeah, this route is just a b!+c# to clean because of that crack. When we were there last month, there was the remnants of a severed rope in the crack. Between the mediocre route, the funky bolt spots, and how much of a pain in the ass this thing is to clean, I would say avoid (no offense to the FAers and bolters intended, it's just the rock itself I think).