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Deputy Wall
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La Gota Frķa T 

La Gota Frķa 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 18 pitches, 1400', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A0 [details]
FA: July 11, 2010 Dylan Connelly & Chris Stolz
Season: May-Sept
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: harihari on Jul 13, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: A topo prepared by Jeremy Frimer, of Squamish BC.

Description 

La Gota Frķa is a long mostly free route on the Deputy Wall, on the Squamish Chief. The route features mostly gear climbing, with a few bolts on some pitches, two bolt ladders (or free at 12+) and entirely bolted belays (except one which is a tree). Pro is plentiful and bomber.

The route has excellent pro, a wide variety of climbing (from finger-to-hand cracks, a short wide crack, a slab traverse, etc), some wild positions and a cool finish.

It is possible to rappel the route from P12 down. From the top of P2, one can rap 30m to a station, and from there 25m to the ground.

P1: Climb a v-slot or arete to right of V slot. Then either straight up (10d bolts and gear) or up and slightly right (11b gear) to a bolt and right to belay.

P2: Up and right to a flake-crack, up and right, then down and right past bolts. 5.9

P3: MONEY! Awesome 30m of fingers to hands. 5.11b bomber gear

P4: MONEY! Hands to fists. 5.10c bomber gear.

P5: Up the dihedral (5.12d or 5.9 A0) past bolts.

P6: Traverse 30 right past bolts on the wildly exposed Green Line ledge 5.5

P7: MONEY! Up and left through the leaning corner. Often wet 5.12

P6 and P7 bypass: traverse halfway along the Green Line Ledge (5.5) then up the bolt ladder to the top of P7

P8: Do an awkward set of moves past a few bolts, a tree and some gear placements, mantle, then up and left past bolts (5.10d). OR head left after tree and follow a finger crack and other moves up to station (5.11a)

P9: Up the nice corner 5.9

P10: Scramble up and right past bolts and brush 5.5

P11: MONEY! Up the widening corner past a few bolts. An 11+ variation heads right about 10m up 5.10d

P12: Go to blocks on right side of ledge, then up past bolts and gear. 5.10a

P13: Straight up to under roof, then left past bolts to a short crack. Belay on tree. 5.10b

Walk left about 30 m on forested ledge.

P14: Follow a blocky right-trending crack to harder moves off bolts past a short roof. 5.10d

P15: MONEY! Up the yellwo flake, then undercling in a cool position into the base of the massive V-slot 5.8

P16: MONEY MONEY! Up the 5.3 offwidth for 10m past one bolt, then stem and jam the awesome steepening V-slot hand and fist crack to a ledge. Move up and slightly left past ledge to station. 5.10c or feels harder if you didn't bring enough water

P17: Step to right side of ledge, and wander up for two pitches on either slabs with occasional bolts, trees and gear, OR head up and slightly left through a gnarly ugly 4th class bypass to top of 2nd summit. The route tops out on fairly close to Ultimate Everything.

Location 

The route begins at a clean obvious v-groove which (as of summer 2010) has a fixed blue line hanging off it. Follow the directions for accessing the Deputy Wall.

Protection 

60 m rope
2x Camalots from .3 to #3
1x #4 and #5 Camalot
1-2x blue alien/tcu or equivalent
extra draws and slings for ladders
med + small nuts


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By angel oproescu
Nov 14, 2010

Did this last summer (but didn't free whole thing). Pretty good. There are a couple crap pitches but those are fast and easy. Pitch 3 is awesome. The big V at the end is really good. It will be great once more traffic gets on it.

The pitch above the big left forest traverse might be harder than 10d.