This striking arete bounds the right(west)edge of the Upper North face of Notch peak. It offers more sun, maybe less rockfall hazard since it is on an arete. Two of the belys are directly on the crest of the arete giving nice views into the valley and across the dark North face. Cool! It is graded 5.10 but is similar in difficulty to Book of Saturdays with the crux being in the same sandy band of rock that cuts through the wall. The arete rises in 3 distinct sections. The route is also known as "Pillars of Faith" following the mock religious theme. It was put up with traditional ground up ethics. a variation "road to perdition" at 5.10+ is a nice technical finish (3 final pitches) to keep the excitment alive. Tommie and I put this variation in by rappelling in from the top (pre-inspection/cleaning) and leading out while placing gear and bolts, hence, "Road to Perdition".
It is best to approach via the Lower N face routes (20 minute walk). But for a more casual outing, you can also also approach as for Book of Saturdays. It is best to rappel down BOS after summiting, it will make the hike out easy, and avoid a walk back under the face.
10mm Stainless bolts, minimum of 1 set of cams from tcu's to 3.5". quickdraws/runners. expect some runout climbing on looseness (usual Notch peak fare). See topo for details
BETA PHOTO: topo of La Fin.
|Comments on La Fin du Monde
Mar 15, 2007
makes a pleasant mountain day ... not as commiting as the other routes.... and still get to the top.... then rap book of saturdays. (90 mins fair estimate if you know the raps to get down Book of Saturdays). You can easily Rap la Fin from top of pitch 4 (maybe 5), but after that it gets lower angled and involved to rap.
|By Eric Chabot|
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Jun 20, 2013
Climbed this in a party of 3 on 6/17. We linked pitches 1 & 2, as well as 4 & 5, but watch out for rope drag. The crux moves of p4 are well bolted.
Pitch 6 was very very exposed and cool, dead vertical rock with lots of big hollow sounding huecos, the best on the route I thought. Rapping after this pitch would be possible but you'd be showered with rocks and probably get your rope stuck.
Pitch 8 had some extremely loose sections--at one point at least 50 lbs of rocks came fell down a little gully I was climbing. Routefinding was challenging for me on this pitch, and good pro was sparse but the climbing was easy.
With better rock quality this route would be ****. Feel free to PM me if you want a pitch-by-pitch spraydown