La Femme Takeda  5.12c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Cedar Wright New Route:  Yes Season:  summer/afternoon Submitted By:  Cedar Wright on Jul 28, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is an overhanging finger to flared thin hand crack with a cool, but unprotected boulder problem start, on a lone boulder/tower. If you send this without tape and don't gobie, find me and I'll buy you a bear and a high-five. Pete Takeda who has climbed in the Woo for years, turned me on to this challenging little rig, and this is one of the legendary Takeda's many nicknames. He had tried this thing on a few occasions but never managed to lead it clean. He generously turned the line over to me and I managed to barely scrap up it second go. This is the sort of climb that seems to pack an eighty-foot climbing experience into only forty feet of burly crack. The start is 11+ and unprotected for about ten feet, so have your belayer spot til the, and then make sure every piece counts, because you are close to the ground.

Location 

This route is located in the lower blair iii area before you reach the main cliff on your left as you approach. About two hundred yards or so before you reach routes like five finger, venture 90 degrees left of the trail, about forty yards or so up hill towards a tower like formations. The short overhanging crack faces east and gets shade after noon.

Protection 

thin to one camalot.