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La Diosa  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dean Hoffman with help from Johnny Lynch
Page Views: 1,878
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Aug 23, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: La Diosa climbs up the green face, enjoy.

Description 

Very visually pleasing this route has great moves with good exposure. Greg P. claims it as the best route he's climbed at this area. Gear with one bolt, starts just left of Flameout. Climb up the rolling slab, protecting the .75 crack and then through the OW and slabby face to large ledge system. The real business comes right off the ledge, be sure to find the tricky #1 camalot before making the moves to the bolt, steep balancey climbing on big holds through one bolt, pulling up to a thin crack that takes small cams. DO NOT FALL BEFORE CLIPPING THE BOLT-if yer unsure you can do the move climb Flameout first and hand a draw on rappel... That being said it Feels bolder than it really is. Up to small perch for one last small cam and then pull on the big rail all the way to the top. For the true experience stay on the steep face all the way to the tippy top.


Location 

Just left of Flameout. Bright green lichen face. Rap the route.


Protection 

This is probably more than you need, but..., the key pieces are the micros, and .4 or .5 camalot for the placement.
Cams from Micros to #3, doubles in .75 and #1? Slings and a QD yippee.



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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is by far the best 5.10 at West Elden. Every move on the headwall is just awesome. Great exposure and great climbing. This route is definitly goddess worthy.

After the bolt I placed a Blue Metolius TCU, then a Purple Metolius TCU. At the small stance look for a green Camalot placement in a pod.

By Paul Davidson
Apr 9, 2008

Hard to tell without being there, but this looks suspiciously like Omega Z, I route done by Jim Haisley and me somewhere around 1980. I recall it being a testy 5.10 lead. Hard nutting, run out, a Grossman style classic.

Someday when I'm back at WE I'll see if I can figure out if it's the same line.

By Dean Hoffman
Apr 13, 2008

Hey Paul, thanks for the heads up, if it is the same line I apologize for dropping a bolt in it. I didn't see anything listed in that area in Tims book. Regardless its a pretty stellar climb.

By Paul Davidson
Apr 16, 2008

No worries Dean...

Looks similar but hard to say. I do recall the route wandering in a Z fashion. If it's the same line, the bolt would probably allow a direct start where we might have been climbing in from the left.

I recall the upper stuff being run out, as in work the moves out before committing. Someday I'll try and check it out.

By Albert Newman
Sep 12, 2010

This route is but one of several West Elden old school testpieces which may not be in print format.

Me chum onsighted this route today with just a few little cams and two big nuts, traversing in from the left and skipping the (retro?) bolt by climbing in above it, following the natural line of holds up this sweet face. What a beautiful clean line, a proud, testy journey from back in the day like so many others at this lovely traditional area.

I can see how the bolt allows one to make more of a "direct" start, bypassing several feet of exciting moves on tricky nuts, steep rock.

Omega Z, what a classic all natural West Elden face climb.

"Hard nutting, runout, Grossman style classic".
Amen.

By CJD
From: Chino Valley, AZ
Nov 24, 2010

I did this one in the mid 80's too.

By Dean Hoffman
Mar 6, 2011

Albert, CJD, if you're around you should head up and do the "new" variation, through the bolt. I think you will find it to be quite good. Next time I'm up there I'll have a look at how you would access it from the left. As it is the moves through the bolt are pretty exciting and have foiled more than one on-sight. Not sure I'd try the direct line without it. And again as I mentioned before I wasn't trying to "retro bolt" anyones route, none of my resources noted it.

ps Albert, long time no see, you still up on Oak?

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

TRed this route again a few days ago after climbing Flameout. So good.