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La Cueva Canyon, Upper

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Andy Boy Wall 
Chaos Crag 
Donald Duck 
El Paisano 
Estrellita 
Fin, The 
Fire Hydrant 
Frog 
Hole in the Wall 
Lost Spectacle 
Mexican Breakfast Formation 
Middle Way, The 
My Secret Garden 
Paired Pole Pillars 
Pulpit, The 
Rat's Rock 
Science Friction & Windward Walls 
Slot, The 
Thumb, The 
Torreon 
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Yataghan 

La Cueva Canyon, Upper Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.2063, -106.452 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,663
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 22, 2006
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51° | 28°
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49° | 30°
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48° | 28°
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46° | 29°
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BETA PHOTO: Overview Map of Upper LaCueva and Chimney Canyons.

Description 

The La Luz trail, running from the foothills of the Sandias to the Sandia Crest, runs directly through this canyon. There is a high concentration of stellar routes on the rock within Upper LaCueva Canyon. Also, in comparison to many other routes within the Sandias, the approaches can be shorter and easier.

Getting There 

Though the routes within this canyon can be accessed from the lower part of the canyon (Juan Tabo Picnic Area in the foothills of Albuquerque), it is much easier to access them from the Sandia Crest. The La Luz trail begins on the South end of the Sandia Crest parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

101 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',44],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',11],['5.8',17],['5.9',14],['5.10',27],['5.11',22],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in La Cueva Canyon, Upper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for La Cueva Canyon, Upper:
Northeast Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'   Donald Duck
Northwest Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000'   The Thumb
The Cave Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 360'   The Pulpit
Estrellita   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   Estrellita
Beat Around the Bush   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Estrellita
Miss Piggy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'   Hole in the Wall
American Beauty   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 130'   My Secret Garden
The Happy Gnome   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Yataghan
Aviary Ort Overhangs   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   The Thumb
Mexican Breakfast Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'   Mexican Breakfast Formation
Mountain Momma   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Torreon
Sorcerer's Apprentice   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   Torreon
Shine On   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   The Slot
Bitch's Brew   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Torreon
Good Clean Fun   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'   Science Friction & Windward...
Global Warming   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 115'   The Slot
Sister Sledge   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Hole in the Wall
Voodoo Child   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   Torreon
Wizard of Air   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   Torreon
The Sorcerer   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   Torreon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in La Cueva Canyon, Upper

Featured Route For La Cueva Canyon, Upper
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Ripper... trying to see the crux through the ...

Sister Sledge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall
Amble up and left past the first two bolts, using the pillar to the left, though it is not necessary. Next head right in an undercling flake feature. Then blast straight up past the next 3 or 4 bolts with pretty continuous moves on edges in horizontal seams and opposing sidepulls. The feet are typically slopy or difficult to see because of the bulging nature of the rock between the horizontal breaks. Once the angle lessens the climbing eases and trends slightly right passed more bolts on the way...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of La Cueva Canyon, Upper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of some of the features on the south side...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of some of the features on the south side...
Rock Climbing Photo: From The Pulpit
From The Pulpit
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama of Upper La Cueva Canyon with The Thumb t...
Panorama of Upper La Cueva Canyon with The Thumb t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper La Cueva Canyon looking southwest
BETA PHOTO: Upper La Cueva Canyon looking southwest
Rock Climbing Photo: Donald Duck & Fire Hydrant
Donald Duck & Fire Hydrant
Rock Climbing Photo: La Luz trail view, Upper La Cueva Canyon
BETA PHOTO: La Luz trail view, Upper La Cueva Canyon

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