La Creme De Shorts 5.9
| 2,591 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003 |
| |
Climbing Creme de Shorts.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Approach as per Layback Crack. This climbs the right trending crack in the face. Finger to hand climbing that proved to be very strenuous. This climb is beautiful nonetheless.
Protection 2 chains atop for the anchors. Standard rack, avoiding the small stuff and the larger stuff. My 1st piece was a nut and the rest were SLCD's (more out of convenience than neccesity).
BETA PHOTO: 4. Layback Crack (5.5) at Storm Mtn Picnic Area
|
Another pic of Creme de Shorts.
|
TR'ing my nephew from Houston. His first real roc...
|
2nd clip (already over-protecting)
|
I didn't even realized how much I stemmed until I ...
|
Love the jamming on this route.
|
1st face holds
|
BETA PHOTO: la creme de shorts
| |
| Comments on La Creme De Shorts |
|
By Vince Romney
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.9
| Did this again on Memorial Day, and I forgot how cool this is! Bomber jams, slight overhang, and killer stems for stances while placing pro. This is a great pre-climb for Goodro's. Stemming saves the arms. |
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Jun 4, 2004
| Agree with Vince! This climb may spank some unsusupecting 5.9 leaders (like it did me a couple years ago). Be ready to crank from the start. Really too short to get 2 stars, but better than a 1 star, so what the hell. |
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 23, 2004
| Finally lead this...What a pump. I was almost more pumped than after Goodro's. |
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 23, 2004
| Almost forgot, the chain anchors are not in the best position for this climb. A natural anchor can be had easily. |
By Ishmail
From: Utah
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.9
| I finally did this climb and it is a great one. If it were only a little longer. Nice jams and fun stemming. |
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Aug 3, 2007
| The first 20-25 feet is the beef of the climb. Then it turns to classic BCC 5.8. Quality. |
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| I've done this one several times now, I gotta say that I really like it! Pumpy, nicely protected, and great movement. |
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Oct 9, 2012
| With a 70m rope we did this and kept going to the top of the second pitch of Layback and walked off. True the top section will feel just like steep hiking after doing the crack but it's always fun to top out on something. |
|
RSS Feed
4 more...
Slideshow
