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> Perrons de Vallorcine
La Ballade des Gens Heureux
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, Alpine, 920 ft (279 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,417 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Seleucus on Jun 7, 2012 |
Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre |
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Description
This route follows a beautiful line up the south face of The Grand Perron. In general the rock quality is very good with a few exceptions on the last pitch. Some of the guide books suggest that a few cams or nuts could be useful, but the route easily doable without any additional protection as all the difficult moves are very well protected.
P1 (5.9): Start at the obvious bolts at the beginning of the climb. Continue up a somewhat delicate face (the crux) to a horizontal fissure in the wall. Move left and climb the arete to the belay at a small ledge.
P2 (5.8): Move across very low angle slab to an overlap. Climb the overlap (crux) and belay at the bolts.
P3 (5.7): Move across low angle slab following bolts to the next belay.
P4 (5.10c): Crux! From the belay continue for a few metres across slab. Climb as small overlap and approach the vertical wall. A few difficult moves in the middle of the wall will lead to jugs near the top. Pull over the top and continue left to the belay.
P5 (5.10a): Climb the face.
P6 (5.9+): Go left making very delicate moves across a slabby face. Go up through a few small overlaps and corners to the belay at a ledge.
P7 (5.10a): Follow bolts over low angle slab until you come to a vertical wall. Pull some awkward moves to the top. Belay at one of the two anchors.
P1 (5.9): Start at the obvious bolts at the beginning of the climb. Continue up a somewhat delicate face (the crux) to a horizontal fissure in the wall. Move left and climb the arete to the belay at a small ledge.
P2 (5.8): Move across very low angle slab to an overlap. Climb the overlap (crux) and belay at the bolts.
P3 (5.7): Move across low angle slab following bolts to the next belay.
P4 (5.10c): Crux! From the belay continue for a few metres across slab. Climb as small overlap and approach the vertical wall. A few difficult moves in the middle of the wall will lead to jugs near the top. Pull over the top and continue left to the belay.
P5 (5.10a): Climb the face.
P6 (5.9+): Go left making very delicate moves across a slabby face. Go up through a few small overlaps and corners to the belay at a ledge.
P7 (5.10a): Follow bolts over low angle slab until you come to a vertical wall. Pull some awkward moves to the top. Belay at one of the two anchors.
Location
Follow the path to the Perrons from Lac d'Emosson as described in the area's description. When Grand Perron comes into view on the right, follow a distinct path (marked by Cairns) which breaks off from the main path. Follow this until you reach the base of the climb and see the bolts (only a few meters off the ground).
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