l. Sleepy Hollow Rock Climbing
This trail is about a minute before the S-turn on ...
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Along the Cliff
Main Features: Sleepy Hollow has more of a lost-in-the-woods (read: solitude!) feel, as the cliff is generally shorter and lower here. It's more a collection of individual routes, than an wall or a coherent area. Still, there are some truly worthwhile routes to discover hidden behind the vegetation!
Approach: Generally, these routes are approached by either the very last trail before the S-turn in the carriage road, or by walking into the woods at the first apex of the S-turn. See individual route descriptions.
Descent: Varies by route; typically tree anchors.
Roger's Escape Hatch: 3, G Casa Emilio
: 5.2, PG Creaky Joints and Trigger Points
: 5.10, PG
The Devil Made Me Do It: 5.9, R Almost Pure and Simple
: 5.8, G
Strings Attached: 5.12, TR Casablanca
: 5.8, PG
Emilio: 5.7+, PG Casanova
, 5.9 Independent Hangover
: 5.10+, PG-R
Yo Mama: 5.10, PG
Worp Factor 1: 5.11+, R-X
Interstellar Overdrive: 5.8, PG
Emilietta: 5.3, G Counterstrike
: 5.9, PG
Sudden Death: 5.8+, X Trigger Point
: 5.6, G
Crack of Despondency: 5.4, G
Pfui Teufel: 5.3, G
Four Foot Face: 5.3, G
Thom's Thumb, Left Hand: 5.4, PG
Future Shock: 5.12-, R
Meat By-Products: 5.10+, R
The Numbers Racket: 5.12, TR Art's Route
: 5.9, G
Renaissance: 5.12, PG
Modern Love: 5.13, TR
Thom's Thumb, Right Hand: 5.10-, PG
Ranger's Revenge: 5.5, PG
True Brit: 5.7, G
The Circumcisor: 5.12, R
Bone Hard: 5.12, PG
Death's Head Mask: 5.12+, R
Penal Colony: 5.7, R
Circumcision: 5.7, PG
Prophylactic: 5.11, R
Foreign Lesion: 5.10-, TR
Dick's Prick: 5.6, PG
Penis Colada: 5.8+, X
V. D.: 5.10, PG
Girls Just Want To Have Fun: 5.12+, PG-R 10,000 Restless Virgins
: 5.10+, PG The Lone Ranger
: 5.3, G
After the Prick: 5.4, PG
Shut Up and Eat Your Greens: 5.12, TR Wegetables I've Never Seen Before
: 5.10+, PG Tennish Anyone?
: 5.10, PG
Hawaii Five-Ten: 5.10, R Footloose
: 5.8, PG Boron Destroyer
: 5.10, PG Fancy Free
: 5.8+, PG Headless Horseman
: 5.10, G
Crustacean Syndrome: 5.8, PG
Slime World: 5.12-, PG
Swamp Gas: 5.10+, PG A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind
: 5.4, G
Weather station 1.7 miles from here
30 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in l. Sleepy Hollow
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for l. Sleepy Hollow:
Casa Emilio 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Casablanca 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
V.D. 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For l. Sleepy Hollow
10,000 Restless Virgins 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : l. Sleepy Hollow
10,000 Restless Virgins is representative of many Gunks climbs as it has a wonderful name (anyone know the story behind it?) and, of course, a challenging roof.It is located at the far right end of the Trapps, and the start is actually concealed by a massive boulder (Dick's Prick pinnacle) that sits at the base of the cliff. One must scramble down into a pit formed by the boulder and the main wall.Climb up a crack system and left-facing corner until you are situated beneath the roof. From here...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Casa Emilio on the left, and Casablanca on the rig...
By Nicolas Falacci
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 8, 2015
I really don't understand why the climbs on the wall behind Dick's Prick are not listed in the "faves" or classics list and get descriptions. These are some short, but terrific routes.
Bone Hard 12a left side of the wall - great moves!
Death's Head Mask 12c - fun and hard
Girls Just Wanna Have Fun - 13a - yeah 13a for a 5'2" Lynn Hill.
Bone Hard can be easily TRed by going up the giant pillar block to the left to a ledge, then walk to it's far northern end, then step onto the main wall and traverse right 5.4 until you come to the anchors for Bone Hard.
Girls is easily TRed after leading 10,000 Restless Virgins.
Try it. That is one of the hardest cruxes I've ever attempted in the Gunks. I mean, I had gotten Bone Hard in 2 tries, had breezed through 10,000 on lead, and couldn't begin to make the crux move on Girls.
Oct 8, 2015
Hi Nick, nice to see you here. Those routes are not listed here simply because no one has added entries for them yet. When someone does create entries for them (hint!, hint!), they'll be voted on by others, and automatically added to the favorites and classics lists. Thanks for the photos you added today!