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BETA PHOTO: Martini (Feb '08)
The climb is located about 20 feet right of The Chimney. Look for the martini glass shaped hanging flake about mid cliff.
Start on the face just left of a left trending broken feature. Establish yourself on the top of the broken feature and delicately climb up face to the base of the hanging “martini glass” flake. Go directly right and follow cracks under the right side of the flake to the crux headwall overlap. Depending on ice conditions -Dry: pull headwall using tiny one toothers in vertical seam –or- Ice: climb dribbles delicately. From no-hands stance on top of the martini glass, trend right on chossy flakes to the upper alcove below ice. Pull through alcove onto ice and climb ice to anchors where the ice ends.
9 Bolts. NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you clip the first 4 bolts with regular Quickdraws and the next 4 with shoulder length (24” runners). A screw for the upper ice might be useful if the bolt above the alcove is covered in ice and hasn’t been chopped out (If you see an obvious hole in the ice about 8 feet below the top of ice, it’s been hacked out).
Guy Lacille onsighting Martini
BETA PHOTO: Martini with some fat ice right, Chimney left. Feb...
|By Bill Rusk|
From: Duluth, MN
Feb 19, 2012
If you get on this route this year PLEASE do not torque behind the flake. Hook hook HOOK! The cementing ice layer that is usually there is absent this year.