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Cat Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Kung Pao Cat 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Kim & Matt Lisenby - circa 2005.
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 9, 2010

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Description 

Kung Pao Cat is yet another great new route in the "new wave" style. Begin a ways left of Curiosity and right of Kool Cat below an obvious aręte with two bolts. A difficult 5.11 move leads to the first clip and then cruxy climbing past a second clip culminates with a jug and a fixed wire in suspect rock. Above this is scary, committing climbing up a hollow flake with small, sketchy gear, but the situation improves rapidly. A good rest on a ledge is followed by a nicely varnished offset #1 Camalot crack with a final fun move to the chains. Great route but kinda scary.

Protection 

Tiny to #2 Camalot.


Comments on Kung Pao Cat Add Comment
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By Matt Lisenby
Apr 21, 2010

FA: Kim & Matt Lisenby in about 2005. Location: between Tender Vittles and the Line King. Glad this route is posted up, I couldn't recall what we named it. Does anyone have a good photo of this one? I recall using a large cam in a horizontal to make the opening move safer. If you like this route, you'll probably like "my little friend" at scarface and "the Doghouse" on the cat wall - both are more technical than your average IC crack.
By Moritz B.
Dec 1, 2014

Pulled the fixed nut out while on TR. Was highly suspect.
By Josh Janes
Dec 1, 2014

It may have held a lead fall, it may not have. Or, it may have held body weight or it may not have. I think it's a bummer to make the call to pull it out while on TR. I can only assume that someone put the rope up for you - did that person clip the fixed wire? They may have thought it was suspect (as did I), but did they clip it? Personally, I was glad that wire was there even though I did not test it.
By Moritz B.
Dec 8, 2014

Josh, my buddy Scott who led the pitch actually hung on the wire (bodyweight only). It held the bodyweight. When I TR´ed it, the nut just came out once I touched the draw attached to it. I didn´t rip it out yet I also didn´t put it back in place, which would have been bad style in my opinion. Whoever is planning on repeating the route might consider bringing slider nuts for the spot where the nut was.