Kung Pao Cat 5.12b R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Kim & Matt Lisenby - circa 2005. |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Apr 9, 2010 |
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Description Kung Pao Cat is yet another great new route in the "new wave" style. Begin a ways left of Curiosity and right of Kool Cat below an obvious arête with two bolts. A difficult 5.11 move leads to the first clip and then cruxy climbing past a second clip culminates with a jug and a fixed wire in suspect rock. Above this is scary, committing climbing up a hollow flake with small, sketchy gear, but the situation improves rapidly. A good rest on a ledge is followed by a nicely varnished offset #1 Camalot crack with a final fun move to the chains. Great route but kinda scary.
Protection Tiny to #2 Camalot.
By Matt Lisenby
Apr 21, 2010
| FA: Kim & Matt Lisenby in about 2005. Location: between Tender Vittles and the Line King. Glad this route is posted up, I couldn't recall what we named it. Does anyone have a good photo of this one? I recall using a large cam in a horizontal to make the opening move safer. If you like this route, you'll probably like "my little friend" at scarface and "the Doghouse" on the cat wall - both are more technical than your average IC crack. |
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