All climbs are on the east side of the the canyon. That means morning/early afternoon shade until around 1:30pm. It has Rifle easy to moderate climbing.
Warning: This is a new area so BEWARE of loose rock! When in doubt wear a HELMET! All climbs have high first bolts. When in doubt, use a stick clip!
At the northern parking spaces of the Bauhaus on the west side of the Canyon, walk directly across the road to the big cottonwood tree. Follow the trail behind the tree up and left, then up and right which puts you right in front of Hal 9000. Approach time to Hal 9000 is measured in seconds.
There is a porta-potty at the east side parking area, please use it. There are also picnic tables and fire rings for your enjoyment.
Jump up on the ledge from the left and gingerly move right under the first clip to start. A few smallish holds with good feet will launch you to bigger holds to C1. Even bigger holds through C3 await you. Jog right then left past C4 & 5 at the horizonal break and past the blocky crux bulge at C6 & C7. Cross left at around C8 over the mini-arete where some easier and then slightly harder climbing on good holds goes to the anchors. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The first bolts are really, really high and hard to stick clip. I measured them at 15 to 20 or more feet, making it impossible or very difficult to stick clip unless you have a really long stick (mine is only 8 feet extended). It would be great to have some lower first bolts on these, especially because the bottoms are dirtiest and the rock is still suspect in spots. Otherwise, a nice addition to Rifle.
While we do appreciate the community service and thank those for taking their personal time to try and clean up some of the routes here at Kubrick's that we have put in. These routes have been cleaned a few times before the general public knew about them. Believe or not these climbs are actually clean compared to when we first put them in. Some climbs here suffer from runoff debris that comes down annually.
Our efforts: Jack Torrance - wire brushed and swept 3 times. Lady Lyndon - wire brushed and swept 3 times. Full Metal Jacket - wire brushed and swept 2 times. Clock Work Orange - wire brushed and swept 2 times.
Traffic should help, as we have been basically the only ones climbing these routes prior to the 2012 season. Hopefully the latest brushings by our fellow climbers will help, but don't count on it.
Also a big thanks to Mr. Schneiter who has left lowering gear for this up and coming busy area at the anchors of the Kubrick's main wall.
Great wall. Big thanks to the McGees for all the hard work to make this area happen. Lots of fun climbing here. There is a short route between the right and left areas. It heads up the steeper wall as the trail climbs up to FMJ, JT, etc. It looks like maybe 6 bolts and an anchor. Does anyone know what the route is?
Dave, it is a MJM route. He calls it 12a, but Scott and I tried it and couldn't figure out how to do a wicked hard move in the middle of the route. So, it didn't feel anything like 12a to us, but maybe we just totally missed something.