Mountain Project: Climbing Boulder Canyon

This particular rock may be considered part of the Wall of Winter Warmth (WWW). It rises out of the stream and forms the R wall of the double waterfalls that lie above Boulder Falls. It is up & to the L of WWW (obvious taller crag in the area) & L of the Berlin Wall. It has over a dozen routes with a leaning toward the naturally protected lines. The routes on the upper part of this rock are just left of the Berlin Wall. Routes here date back at least to the 1980s with significant contributions from Dan Hare & Bob Horan.

L->R:

A. Day Tripper, 9.
B. Oliver's Travels, 10+.
C1. Black Pool, 11, 1p, bolts.
C2. Black Pool Variation, 11, 1p, bolts.
D. Diving For Kipper Snacks, 11-, 1p, gear & bolts.
E. Helix, 9.
F. Old And Easy, 6.
G. Eat My Lichen, 8.

HH. Full Circle, 12, 1p, bolts.
II. Prajna, 9.
JJ. Higher Rites, 11, 1p, 50', bolts +/- gear.
KK. Vishnu, 11, 1p, bolts.
LL. The Coug, 10+, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
MM. Krishna Orange, 9.

North face of Serenity Spire

AAA. Adam's Arete, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
BBB. Bobby's Wall, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

Getting There

Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.

It may be possible to access this from Upper Dream Canyon.

The Classics

Featured Route For Krishna & Serenity Spire

Bobby's Wall 5.10c CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Krishna & Serenity Spire

This is located on the north face of Serenity Spire, down left, north of the Wall of Winter Warmth Massif. Hike along the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth, staying just above North Boulder Creek. Hike around the north end of the isolated spire and into the notch. Climb up the middle section of the north face, right of Adam's Arete, via 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Krishna & Serenity Spire

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By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Apr 11, 2005

I'm commenting here because I think Lower Boulder Falls is closer than Dream Canyon to the area in question, although Rossiter calls the area Lower Dream Canyon. I climbed a 75ft'ish sport route west of and below the Wall of Winter Warmth. The route was in the area called, by Rossiter, the Krishna Buttress. The route I climbed starter directly below the upper falls on the north side of the river, it starts next to a big boulder leaning against the wall which creates an overhang and the crux of the pitch. The route felt around 5.11a to me. In the Rossiter Boulder Canyon book, he describes two routes to the east of this route he calls them Helix and "Old and Easy". He put them under the Krishna Wall. I was wondering if any one knew the name of the route I'm talking about, and if they know its difficulty. There is another route that breaks left after the third bolt and takes the other side of the arete to the same two bolt and chain rap ledge.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 24, 2007

Chris,

It sounds as if the route you did was Black Pool Variation. The other route is Black Pool. FA by Vaino Kodas and Moe Hershoff, 2003. Both were rated 11c by the first ascensionists.

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Apr 10, 2008

Thank you Ron. Does any one know any information about older routes uphill from diving for Kipper snacks and/or to the right of Upper Krishna formation? I think this is the area where Helix, Old and Easy, and Eat my lichen would lie.

By G8rFtBall
May 20, 2009

We climbed Serenity Spire on 5/20/09. It is easily accessible from the Upper Dream Canyon parking lot. The descriptions on this site are confusing though. Both Adam's Arete and Bobby's Wall seem to have pictures of Bobby's Wall for the beta photo. Bobby's Wall (I think) was an excellent climb, though a small tad spicy with a flash pump.

Adams Arete, which I'm almost certain we climbed only has two bolts with a 30 foot runout to the anchors on 9-ish climbing. A deck would be likely if you fell near the anchors. Also, Adam's Arete (I think) is significantly easier than Bobby's Wall. If I am incorrect, let me know.

Anyone know what the hard looking route to the right of Bobby's Wall is? It had one bolt down low (hard climbing), then climbed a dirty looking crack top the top.

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Krishna & Serenity Spire

Description

Getting There

The Classics