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Routes in Gardener's Wall
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Battling Fear S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Streak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken Knob Job aka unknown crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brusin' and Cruisin' T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dog Fight Giggle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Chair S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Lady Land S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Facer's Choice S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fearless Leader S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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First Impressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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For Cryin' Out Loud T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gobs of Nobs S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gravity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hanging Gardens T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hanging Tough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Kreuser's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Lickety Split S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Phantom missed the Opera, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Phantom of the Opera T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Phantom, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Renaissance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Renaissance Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Seam-In T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Snattlerake Dance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Southeast Arete S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P1: Tom Kreuser, Dave Olson (1965) P2: Bruce Grubbs, Larry Treiber, Bill Sewrey (1977) |
| Page Views: | 1,917 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Phil Wilson on Nov 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
P1 (100+ ft.): 2 or 3 tricky smear moves up to crack. Scramble up to large ledge. Go deep inside chimney and scramble up. Squeeze through a small, awkward gopher hole, then move right onto ledge with tree and bolts. This was not much fun. Preferred variation: stay on outside of the chimney and stem move your way to belay ledge. Although the chimney is wide, there are plenty of cracks for cams and nuts. Harder than the scramble in the chimney, but much more fun.
P2 (120+ ft.): from belay ledge, move left back into chimney. Opening moves are tricky as chimney is narrow and flares out. Not wide enough to stem. Too wide to hand/arm jam. Felt harder than 5.3. Also, for the first 25 - 30 ft., it is too wide to take any protection. This makes for an intimidating run out. Finally, you will reach a diagonal crack branching out and up from right side of chimney. #2 or #3 cams work nicely. From there, the route gets much easier to climb and protect. Keep following chimney to the top (more of a large crack than chimney near the top). Last 30 feet or so are an easy scramble. To the right (climbers') of the top there are two bolts. Use these and some big boulders past the top to protect the belay.
Descent: It is possible to rappel down on one 60-meter rope. You will need to downclimb the climbers' left-side of the chimney to an obvious little ledge with a boulder on it at the top of The Phantom. Find two bolts with rings on the face to the climbers' left-side of the small ledge. Rap down and to the right to reach the ledge at the top of pitch 1. Use the chains at top of pitch 1 to rap down to base. Ideally you would rap down and to your left to reach the base of Kreuser's Chimney.. A 70-meter rope might do it. with a 60-meter rope, go straight down to reach the ground to the right of Kreuser's start. Once on terra firma, boulder move your way left 10 ft. over the rock leaning against the face to get back to your gear.
P2 (120+ ft.): from belay ledge, move left back into chimney. Opening moves are tricky as chimney is narrow and flares out. Not wide enough to stem. Too wide to hand/arm jam. Felt harder than 5.3. Also, for the first 25 - 30 ft., it is too wide to take any protection. This makes for an intimidating run out. Finally, you will reach a diagonal crack branching out and up from right side of chimney. #2 or #3 cams work nicely. From there, the route gets much easier to climb and protect. Keep following chimney to the top (more of a large crack than chimney near the top). Last 30 feet or so are an easy scramble. To the right (climbers') of the top there are two bolts. Use these and some big boulders past the top to protect the belay.
Descent: It is possible to rappel down on one 60-meter rope. You will need to downclimb the climbers' left-side of the chimney to an obvious little ledge with a boulder on it at the top of The Phantom. Find two bolts with rings on the face to the climbers' left-side of the small ledge. Rap down and to the right to reach the ledge at the top of pitch 1. Use the chains at top of pitch 1 to rap down to base. Ideally you would rap down and to your left to reach the base of Kreuser's Chimney.. A 70-meter rope might do it. with a 60-meter rope, go straight down to reach the ground to the right of Kreuser's start. Once on terra firma, boulder move your way left 10 ft. over the rock leaning against the face to get back to your gear.
Location
Left side of Gardener's Wall. Allow about 45 minutes from the trailhead for the approach. Hike 1 mile up Tom's Thumb Trail - very nice but very steep. From "Climbing Access to Gardener's Wall" sign, follow primitive trail. Gardener's wall is on other side of the ravine. The trail gets more primitive as you cross the bottom of the ravine, probably because people branch out to various points at the bottom of the wall. Although there are a few ways to go, perhaps the best approach is to shoot for the "A"-shaped hole/tunnel between leaning boulders. Scramble up to it, watch for snakes! Move slowly through and up the tunnel. Awkward mantle over a large flake will put you a few feet from the base of Kreuser's Chimney.
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